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Old 08-05-2007, 02:34 AM   #1
FGII-XR6
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Default LED tail lights

has anyone encountered this i tried the LED tail / brake lights from tricky dickys and they looked Gr8 then one night i was on the freeway got her up to speed and no cruise : didn't know what it was at the time as i had put the lights in a while ago finally the penny droped the cruise only didn't work with lights on so i put globes back in presto I had cruise at night. So has this happened to you ? how did u fix it ? I tried a diode in the brake line incase i was geting a back feed but no joy help please

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Old 08-05-2007, 08:48 AM   #2
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This is due to the change in resistance from a normal globe to LED ... cruise needs a change in resistance for cruise to switch off when touching the brakes.

I think it's a case of cruise thinks the brakes are on all of the time and hence it won't engage at all.

I'd like the get the F150 replacement LED clusters from the US .... but I am afraid I am going to come across the same issue ... unless I can get my auto electrician to alter the way the LEDs show resistance change back to the brake light switch for cruise.
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Old 08-05-2007, 07:53 PM   #3
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As a quick fix you could try tapping a normal bulb into the brake light circuit and mounting in a box inside the boot, heat shouldn't be a problem unless you are one of those people who drive with your brake pedal, that should provide the resistance needed to get the cruise control up and working again
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Old 08-05-2007, 08:45 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umineko
As a quick fix you could try tapping a normal bulb into the brake light circuit and mounting in a box inside the boot, heat shouldn't be a problem unless you are one of those people who drive with your brake pedal, that should provide the resistance needed to get the cruise control up and working again
I tried that and cruise was fine but it made the LEDs dim go figure eh
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:18 PM   #5
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Yeah Ok that's odd, my next choice then would be to throw in an electronic relay to feed the LED's to direct 12V and use the brake light circuit to feed the relay and the dummy load bulb, that'd get around the cruise controls hissy fit over there being no bulb and still keep your LED bright and happy... bit of mucking around with wiring but hey if you gotta have LEDs you have to do what you have to do... actually I glad this thread popped up because I have my LED bulbs in the glove box waiting for me to get enough time to put them in.
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Old 09-05-2007, 12:38 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Umineko
Yeah Ok that's odd, my next choice then would be to throw in an electronic relay to feed the LED's to direct 12V and use the brake light circuit to feed the relay and the dummy load bulb, that'd get around the cruise controls hissy fit over there being no bulb and still keep your LED bright and happy... bit of mucking around with wiring but hey if you gotta have LEDs you have to do what you have to do... actually I glad this thread popped up because I have my LED bulbs in the glove box waiting for me to get enough time to put them in.
good thinking actually i'm thinking the relay coil may even have enough resistance to do the job without the dummy bulb i'll let you know how it goes thanks
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Old 09-05-2007, 12:46 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au3xr6
good thinking actually i'm thinking the relay coil may even have enough resistance to do the job without the dummy bulb i'll let you know how it goes thanks
I'd reckon it'd probably do the job as far as resistance goes, I was thinking more of a solid state relay (ie no contacts or coil) only because of the lag time a mechanical relay might give, that said though the response time of LEDs being somewhat faster than incandescent bulbs would probably make up for the lag of a mechanical relay to the point where there'd be little if any difference to the standard bulb system... I'd be interested to hear how this works out for you.
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Old 09-05-2007, 06:56 AM   #8
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You can buy a unit to which caters for these issues. I will get details for you today. The same issues occur when leds are used as indicators, they flash faster as the electronic flasher cans require the resistance.

Cheers,
Mike
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Old 09-05-2007, 07:55 AM   #9
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Yes please ... that'd be great ... as I am looking at a set of taillights from the US at the moment (not just a globe replacement ... a full assembly setup with LEDs in them.)

I was wondering how some of the vehicles get around the flash flashing of indicators after the switch to LEDs.
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Old 09-05-2007, 08:59 PM   #10
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Website is ledautolamps.com

Go to catalogue, download, (adobe)
Go to page 30, part number LR12, List Price $12.90.

If anybody is having a drama with finding a retailer, pm me.

The Catalogue has pricing, so it can help.
Heaps of nice lamps for trailers or traybacks, pretty cheap!

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Mike
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Old 10-05-2007, 01:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNM96
Website is ledautolamps.com

Go to catalogue, download, (adobe)
Go to page 30, part number LR12, List Price $12.90.

If anybody is having a drama with finding a retailer, pm me.

The Catalogue has pricing, so it can help.
Heaps of nice lamps for trailers or traybacks, pretty cheap!

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Mike
we deal with these guys thru work and they are very good, as is their pricing. Based in Melbourne.
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Old 10-05-2007, 06:53 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
we deal with these guys thru work and they are very good, as is their pricing. Based in Melbourne.
Good Warranty on LED's also.
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Old 10-05-2007, 08:07 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b2tf
we deal with these guys thru work and they are very good, as is their pricing. Based in Melbourne.
Hmmmm ... might speak to you about it ... will also show you a link to some nice ute lights in the states that suit the AU nicely as well. Hmmmm ... I smell some cosmetics mods on the horizon ... hee hee
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Old 10-05-2007, 01:16 AM   #14
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i sorted it tonight a 39 ohm 5 watt resistor will allow cruise to work without dimming the leds it does not draw as much as a bulb but everything works a 5 watt resistor is fine as a 39ohm resistor will only dissapate 3.7 watts and @ 12V and 5 watts @ 14 V allowing for voltage drop it will not need any higher power rating ( also the load is intermitant) good luck all

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Old 10-05-2007, 08:09 AM   #15
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Oh ... here's the link to the resistor ... the top one
http://www.ledautolamps.com/product_resisters.htm
I like the side note "Do not attach to plastic ... temperatures reach 170 deg C" .... at least they warm you.


I like the strip lamps as well
http://www.ledautolamps.com/product_striplamp.htm
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Old 10-05-2007, 12:22 PM   #16
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nw simon let me know what you're chasing. im thinking about putting some sealed LED's into the tray so it lights it up a bit better.
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:02 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k

These lights, and my new toy, inspired me too build a new bike trailer. I have a design, the lights and eff all else, but the lights are stonkin'!
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Old 10-05-2007, 02:54 PM   #18
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I would be after the LR12 resistor ... I presume i need 2 .... one for each cluster.
I just need to get me some taillights now.
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Old 10-05-2007, 10:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mechan1k
I would be after the LR12 resistor ... I presume i need 2 .... one for each cluster.
I just need to get me some taillights now.
all u need is one 39 ohm 5 watt resistor from the brake light wire to earth works well and costs 30 cents
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:09 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au3xr6
all u need is one 39 ohm 5 watt resistor from the brake light wire to earth works well and costs 30 cents
oh OK .... just the one on the earth then.

Will have a chat with my friendly auto electrician then about them.
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Old 10-05-2007, 10:19 PM   #21
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This thread is useless without pics.

Need photo's of these LED lights in action!
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:05 PM   #22
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Mine work just fine. :

Also when you change to LED's you need to change your flasher can, I can get the part number if you want, its a Narva part, used in trucks that have normal headlights but LED rears. Prices vary but I got mine for about $20
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:42 PM   #23
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just get one from jaycar or dick smiths for 30 cents
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Old 10-05-2007, 11:53 PM   #24
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I did custom LED lights on my EL, never had any problems. Had to replace the flasher relay with a LED aware one to fix the fast flashing, otherwise there were no problems. I was however running 40 (a side) tail/brake LEDs, not the normal 15ish per bulb that the after market ones normally do.



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Old 10-05-2007, 11:58 PM   #25
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^^did that take/cost much to set up? i've been thinking of trying something similar to au sedan tail lights
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Old 17-05-2007, 12:15 PM   #26
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data mine, did you use white for the stop tail lights? Did you have any instructions re led array and resistors or did you design them yourself?

Looks good.
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Old 17-05-2007, 07:10 PM   #27
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Used Red LEDs, Amber ones, and white ones. It CAN cost a lot. I bought LEDs in bulk from ebay, paying < 4 cents for each instead of the 20/30 cents each from Jaycar/DSE etc.

I designed them myself (I've a background in electronics). It's fairly simple to do. And I only used protoboard PCBs (not custom etched ones).
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Old 27-05-2007, 02:32 AM   #28
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just put leds in my Au brake/tail they look kool and different, no problems with the cruise control everything is normal.
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Old 27-05-2007, 08:51 AM   #29
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Well ... I am looking to see if I can get these shipped over from the US
For the F250/350 trucks ... fits the AU and BA MkI utes perfectly.



There's a few other slight changes in colour as well ... with cleared ones ... half smoked/half red ... etc. as well.

I reckon it'd work out to be about $365 AUD after conversion for the lights inc. shipping if my calculations are correct (plus it's a good time to buy from the US with the current exchange rate).
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Old 27-05-2007, 02:15 PM   #30
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To bad no one (except the new Passat, and the set I did) do LED indicators. WTF is with that?
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