XC Cobra #140 - Page 10

marc97au · 18-04-2012, 11:21 PM

Great job Paul, and great pictures please keep up the great work I'll follow it with interest. How I found you was I was looking for info of what the colour was on the original Thompson (can type with only a dipstick no filler) power steering pump my Cobra came from the factory with. I want to recon the pump (a bit poor at 88K genuine k's but still lots of years) but want to touch it up before reinstalling. It's a bluey, green industrial metalic or hammer finish any ideas you found in your research or help would be appreciated. Thanks

Paull · 29-04-2012, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brute 33

Hi,any updates Paul ?

Not a great deal to report I'm afraid. I got a few hours in today.

Drive shaft is in

Power steering pump is also in

Priming the system

I got a bit lucky here (touch wood) in that I was a bit concerned in having the new power steering box in and no oil to it for quite some time. However, after putting the pump in and turning it over (with no luck), out came the vacuum pump to 'pull' the oil through as compared to pushing it through with the pump. Once that was done, I ran it up for a little while and all appears to be okay (no leaks from the PS box). Hope that remains the same when the engine is started.

I have also added some trans oil to the FMX as well as primed the engine lube oil. I stripped an old distributor and now use that is my oil drive with the aforementioned cordless drill. Rocker cover also came off so as to ensure a full supply of oil was coming up through to the rocker gear.

gcg2503 · 29-04-2012, 10:46 PM

Very nice Paul.

I am looking at your factory power steering pump with great envy. No leaks and no noise!

coupeaddict · 01-08-2012, 08:17 PM

Mate,
Brilliant is the only way to describe, i have started similar project,at painting stage, paint code 9 sno white, engine bay and inners done, looks bit creamy..does that sound right to you..

Paull · 12-08-2012, 08:58 PM

A few small updates.

I was not happy with the headlights that had been restored so after a number of months, I managed to get a couple of NOS ones.

And now fitted to the grille

The carby is now on properly and most connections have been done, a pic of underneath from the transmission

And a few bits that have been bought/reconditioned

Radiator

Radiator shrouds (one for the P6 LTD as well), before and after cleaning

Exhaust system, still need to chase up the collector pipes

We all love NOS

Note to self, always put choke tubes on before installing engine. This is turning out to be a crap job getting these on now

Lucky score here - long range tank NOS fuel sender

Air conditioning parts
New compressor

Drier/Receiver

Tx valve

I am currently working on buying all new hoses (plus fittings). The condensor is also being cleaned and pressure tested. Once done, it can go back in along with the radiator, shroud and grille.

I have also stripped a few AC compressors so as to get all of the drive pulleys zinced

I have asked the question here pertaining to "silver or gold" drive pulleys" I think it is a case of silver, not gold

I have tried cleaning up some washer bottles with mixed success
Before

After

They are clean inside but they are quite yellow on the outside. Will try a few tips from this thread
Cleaning washer bottles

Hopefully I can get rid of the yellow staining.

And a few pics of the engine as it stands now

lilmattie · 17-08-2012, 03:37 PM

I thoroughly enjoy reading your progress Paull. Thanks for sharing.

Paull · 31-08-2012, 10:02 PM

A very small update.

I have got the AC hoses back today

Now I can finish off the engine bay in its entirety.

What's interetsing to note is the price of things in the West. After seeing George's Landau thread, I asked how much he paid for his new hoses - $350 in total inclusive of new fittings. I then contacted a local supplier - $880 in total inclusive of new fittings

Fortunately I have a friend in the AC business and the hoses & fittings (only require three as I am going straight from the condenser to to the receiver) was $200. I just can't believe the absolute rip off prices that we are expected to be paying here!

**cs123** · 31-08-2012, 10:22 PM

Did you buy a new TX valve for it and what gas do you plan to run?

Paull · 01-09-2012, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs123

Did you buy a new TX valve for it and what gas do you plan to run?

Yep. I am going to run HyChill in it.

**cs123** · 01-09-2012, 08:21 AM

That's what I am planning too. Where abouts did you buy the TX valve and rotolock connections from? Are the TX valves still available for the lower pressure gas?

Love your work BTW, great job

Cabbage · 01-09-2012, 12:42 PM

Awesome Paull, my favourite build. Its only subtle but if you don't get the right lights for the twin headlight grill front, it just doesn't look the right.

SCJCoupe · 01-09-2012, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paull

What's interetsing to note is the price of things in the West. After seeing George's Landau thread, I asked how much he paid for his new hoses - $350 in total inclusive of new fittings. I then contacted a local supplier - $880 in total inclusive of new fittings
Fortunately I have a friend in the AC business and the hoses & fittings (only require three as I am going straight from the condenser to to the receiver) was $200. I just can't believe the absolute rip off prices that we are expected to be paying here!

Yes, seems we get ripped off a bit in WA. Every business seems to think they can add a huge margin cos we live in a mining state and we are "booming".
It must be this mentality that causes a difference of $530 in your case, as the freight component from the east wouldn't even be close to $530.
Then they wonder why we look elsewhere like overseas or eastern states to buy products!

gcg2503 · 01-09-2012, 06:37 PM

AC hoses is a funny one

I paid $350ish in total but had two more hoses

The long power steering one that runs under the car cost me $120 alone

$800 is just plain wrong

Scooter · 01-09-2012, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cabbage

Awesome Paull, my favourite build. Its only subtle but if you don't get the right lights for the twin headlight grill front, it just doesn't look the right.

Just wondering, are you implying he has the incorrect headlights for originality, or did he previously have the incorrect headlights?
Looks like it is coming along (slowly) nicely mate. Can't wait to see it on the streets of Perth! Mine is actually in getting panelled right now too.

Paull · 06-09-2012, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cs123

That's what I am planning too. Where abouts did you buy the TX valve and rotolock connections from? Are the TX valves still available for the lower pressure gas?

Love your work BTW, great job

TheTx valve was bought via Autoone. I just supplied all the part numbers and they got the gear in for me. With respect to the rotolock connections, I am waiting for the hose fitter to supply all part numbers and I will then get these as before. They are shown in the Jayair catalogue but there are many different types and I want to ensure that I don't get the wrong ones.

Paull · 06-09-2012, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SCJCoupe

Yes, seems we get ripped off a bit in WA. Every business seems to think they can add a huge margin cos we live in a mining state and we are "booming".
It must be this mentality that causes a difference of $530 in your case, as the freight component from the east wouldn't even be close to $530.
Then they wonder why we look elsewhere like overseas or eastern states to buy products!

Anthat's why I buy so much gear off the internet and not only from Aus. However, in saying that, my local Auotone store is still very competitive so I always gove them first option to beat my beat price. Also, Superoo Falcon Spares have always given me good prices too.

Paull · 06-09-2012, 08:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scooter

Mine is actually in getting panelled right now too.

Where are the pics?????????????????????????

Scooter · 07-09-2012, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paull

Where are the pics?????????????????????????

Not much to see atm really. Just a bare coupe shell with rear parcel shelf and right rear quarter removed and new (not NOS just better) bits tacked in place, plus a few minor rust repairs. Should be going to Garrys today to check on progress, might get some pics. And I agree, Superoo is about the only decent place in town, otherwise internet/Ebay only way to go!

SCJCoupe · 07-09-2012, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paull

Anthat's why I buy so much gear off the internet and not only from Aus. However, in saying that, my local Auotone store is still very competitive so I always gove them first option to beat my beat price. Also, Superoo Falcon Spares have always given me good prices too.

True, Superoo's is very competitive on items where he can. He's always looked after me.
I'm the same with Autopro Morley. Always give him the option to beat a price and 70% of time can. It's just on performance parts or specialist parts that he can't come close sometimes.

Aranciafalcon · 11-09-2012, 12:47 PM

Looking good Paul, I will have to come out soon and check up on it...

Cabbage · 11-09-2012, 04:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Scooter

Just wondering, are you implying he has the incorrect headlights for originality, or did he previously have the incorrect headlights?
Looks like it is coming along (slowly) nicely mate. Can't wait to see it on the streets of Perth! Mine is actually in getting panelled right now too.

Scooter, not implying anything regarding PAull's build, just a comment on xc headlights generally. I think the original lights were curved and have a slightly meaner look than then newer style headlights that have a flatter glass. The difference is subtle with IMO the original curved headlights lookin the best.

kendallRTV · 06-10-2012, 09:51 AM

The old coupe is looking good Paul, very nice rebuild.

To clean up the water bottles try this trick I use to clean up old yellowed Lego parts.

http://www.brothers-brick.com/2009/0...look-new-news/

I don't know what type of plastic the bottle is made of but its worth a go, some parts I have done have taken up to 2 weeks under a light to get clean but the results are amazing.

Paull · 14-10-2012, 01:18 PM

I took a week off recently and have made some good progress on the car. to start with, as mentioned before, I had bought some NOS head light assemblies off eBay. One of the came with a lamp but the other did not. The issue here was that of the being an old style relfector, the usual H4-7's do not fit. The original lamp fortunately came with part numbers so after a quick google search, I found this page

http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b...Cp36t~ece.html

At $57 each, I thought, perhaps not! I then further searched eBay and all other sites, to no avail. I then contacted my local car shop and they said that these had not been available for a long time. From the other web page, I had managed to get further information concerning these globes so it was then a case of back to goolge and I found this

http://www.cp-lighting.co.uk/H4-12V-60-55W-P36T-463

As can be seen, at a price of £4.62 compared to $57, the choice was pretty obvious. Only problem was postage - $85

Me being me, left it to the last minute and had buy them at any rate. So, I bought 5; 1 for the missing head light and 4 spares. About 1 week later, they turned up and this was the first job for the week off.

Next was completing the AC compressor.I had also recently got the zinced parts back and the clutch turned out well but the flywheel was not as good as expected. When I spoke with them at pick up time, they had said that they blast the flywheels first. I think that this is part of the problem. The face of the metal is not as you would normally see with blasting but I think next time, I would get the flywheels plastic media blasted first.

At any rate, as it had to be assembled and I had bought the bearings, it was then re-assembled.

Giving it a quick test and was working well

And all completed

Paull · 14-10-2012, 01:40 PM

The next job was to finish off all of the items remaining in the engine bay. That is, radiator and shroud, AC condensor, washer bottle, engine bay wiring and testing, AC receiver and test fit of hoses to compressor & Tx valve, timing of the engine and then followed up with the distributor & leads and then checking that all bolts, belts etc were tightened to the required torque.

Don't mind the oversized battery (and dodgey wiring), this is just there to test all electrics (power windows and interior as well), plus also run up the engine when ready.

With that done, I then put the exhaust on. I am not even going to show photos of this as it is a complete mess - nothing is correctly lined up but it can be fixed. I had bought the resonator/muffler sections from one supplier and the 2 manifold pipes from another (Oldschool Mufflers). The problem here was that I could not get the front 2 pipes from the original supplier. I am thinking that most if not all people put extractors on Clevelands, not the factory exhaust manifolds. In hindsight, what I should have done was to have bought this directly from Oldschool Mufflers

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-FALC...item27c668c610

Live and learn. I was just keen to keep the standard setup namely the resonators. Once I get the car going, it will have to get the exhaust system completely re-done.

Paull · 14-10-2012, 01:52 PM

The final job for my time off was that of the interior. As usual, nothing was easy and what was expected to take 1 day, took 2 1/2 days. It's never fun trying to line up bolt/screw holes with new carpet, but I finally got there. There was also the issue of fitting the screws in for the console (front). I think that this job is best done with the complete dash out of the car. This is where the flexible drive drill chucks, plus a very helpful wife, come in very handy. The trimmer had also put all of the seat bases on the wrong way so they had to be changed over. As imagined, the B pillar pinch weld and trims were a complete pr!ck of a job. At least the kick panels and scuff plates weren't too bad.

I have also put the door cards on now, just for trial fitting as they will have to come off again when the car goes back to to the spray painter for finishing works. Same applies to the front and rear arm rests.

And now for some pics

There are still quite a number of items yet to be done but work is progressing so I am hoping to be able to get the car to the spray painter by the end og the year - here's hoping.

zoesgift · 14-10-2012, 02:32 PM

hi paull i just tried to pm you but you must have too many messages! i may have something you need. regards

Paull · 14-10-2012, 07:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aranciafalcon

Looking good Paul, I will have to come out soon and check up on it...

Hi Rob, now that the weather is getting better FINALLY!!, please do so.

Paull · 14-10-2012, 07:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cabbage

Scooter, not implying anything regarding PAull's build, just a comment on xc headlights generally. I think the original lights were curved and have a slightly meaner look than then newer style headlights that have a flatter glass. The difference is subtle with IMO the original curved headlights lookin the best.

The lights were fitted in the first place were reconditioned units, that is, original glass but with new (repro) reflectors. I did not have an issue with quality of work done, it was more of a case that the drivers side was not fitting into the retaining bucket. And, if you have the chance to fit NOS, why wouldn't you?

Paull · 14-10-2012, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zoesgift

hi paull i just tried to pm you but you must have too many messages! i may have something you need. regards

Apologies, have now made some space.

XB GS 351 Coupe · 14-10-2012, 08:31 PM

Awesome build and car.

If it overheats once up and running consider getting the correct length fan spacer to put the engine fan in the right spot, it's way to deep in the shroud, only about 1/3rd of the fan should be inside the shroud and 2/3rd outside for maximum air movement through the radiator.

Your fan will tend to cavitate air and restrict air slow through the radiator