Common Problems with the AU?? - Page 15

red_hotxr6 · 18-08-2014, 12:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daz_

Hey guys guess what I've fixed all of the problems with my Falcon after a whole 2 months of ownership!

Traded it in and bought a Holden

:

(Seriously though there was nothing major wrong with it... Just too much of a work ute for someone that didn't need a work ute)

Be sure to keep us up dated with all the problems you find with your holden...

bct · 27-10-2007, 11:53 PM

Hi everyone,

Have a 98 AU Fairmont and the little bugger wont start, not the battery fuel etc, but the dash showed this 'FAlr' once when I was trying to start it - anyone any ideas.

Cheers Brett

blackers10 · 28-10-2007, 12:05 AM

quite possibly dead key thingo.. thinks it isnrt the right one for the car??or its in drive not park or n..

AC · 05-11-2007, 05:15 PM

I've got a problem with my climate control system in the Fairmont.

When its on the windscreen, it sometimes surges, or drops off when braking.
When you turn the fan speed down, it wont go any less than 6.
And when you push the off button, the fan keeps going.

Then when you turn off the car completely... Fans keep running.
Usually solved by flicking the ignition on and off.

I've tried pulling the unit out and checking over it, nothing appears odd.
Except when i put it back in the LCD screen is now very dark.

Any ideas guys ?

Thanks.

AC · 14-11-2007, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AC

I've got a problem with my climate control system in the Fairmont.

When its on the windscreen, it sometimes surges, or drops off when braking.
When you turn the fan speed down, it wont go any less than 6.
And when you push the off button, the fan keeps going.

Then when you turn off the car completely... Fans keep running.
Usually solved by flicking the ignition on and off.

I've tried pulling the unit out and checking over it, nothing appears odd.
Except when i put it back in the LCD screen is now very dark.

Any ideas guys ?

Thanks.

Problem solved.

It was the fan controller unit behind the glove box.
It backs onto an opening in one of the pipes which also can get leaves from the outside drawn into it.
The leaves get caught in the cooling fins of the controller unit and decompose with time and condensation from the air con, which made the alloy oxidise and one of the metal bits rust, causing it to malfunction.

Another one for the books, so to speak.

:

fourl6 · 06-11-2007, 09:49 PM

UUU-986 2001 AU Series 3 Forte

9/6/07 - Purchased Vehicle - 184950 KMs
13/6/07 - Hole In Rear Muffler(Replaced with Redback Exhaust System STR210) - 185130KMs
2/10/07 - Diff Replaced (Second Hand) - Due to bearings - 188378kms
2/10/07 - Hose Power Steering High Pressure - Connection Was Leaking -188378kms (Covered under 3rd party Warranty)

Cespenar · 05-12-2007, 12:30 PM

Two small items that have deteorated: The O ring for the Cruise control on/off switch. This might let dust in and cause a $400 replacement.
The spring for the door handle, the one that holds it firm. It costs approx' $45 for the whole handle from Ford. (The chrome Ghia one). Better than trying to fix a busted spring.

Homes · 09-12-2007, 05:27 PM

I've had an AUII Futura 6cyl for almost 12 months now...i never knew about the steering rack recall...and neither did the previous car's owner. Steering broke the day after i bought it...fixed now & all is good, but i'm still paranoid about it.
Other than that : the clip on the sunglasses holder is a bit iffy - doesn't close very well, don't think i've had a problem in the time i've had the car

24-12-2007, 04:42 PM

what is required to replace the bottom fitting in the AU Boot lid.?

What alternative is there to using ford plastic studs to hold in the front wheel splash guard. I had my left wheel guard tear out just days after I hit a large dog with the bumper bar right hand front corner. I levered out the dent but had the guard tear itself to bits going up a driveway.

I am getting a new plastic splash liner but don't want to trust just plastic studs to hold the replacement in.

**redxm** · 24-12-2007, 09:53 PM

AU3
78000km
Back door actuator dies, about $180 from ford. They dont make ones for AU anymore, you have to buy a BA one and a conversion harness
battery holder in remotes, 2 seconds with soldering iron
handbrake sqealing in reverse, adjusted at service time
Ive just noticed rust around the boot struts & I really need a carport as the paint on the spoiler is all bubbled

hey_you_falcon · 20-10-2009, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redxm

AU3
78000km
Back door actuator dies, about $180 from ford. They dont make ones for AU anymore, you have to buy a BA one and a conversion harness
battery holder in remotes, 2 seconds with soldering iron
handbrake sqealing in reverse, adjusted at service time
Ive just noticed rust around the boot struts & I really need a carport as the paint on the spoiler is all bubbled

I had my AU Series One boot strut anchor points repaired 11 times! (all under warranty)

The factory had heaps of old ones in stock so only once the new ones come along did the problem get resolved.

Basically the problem was galvanic corrosion - dissimilar metals.

Some guys lose the top of the rear guard before the problem appears.

I use fish oil now as a safety measure throughout the boot area and the water channels.

**Papa Smurf** · 25-12-2007, 01:56 AM

One that I don't think is here. When purchasing Door Vertical moulds on all AU's, remember to remove the greasy substance off them before you try to fit. The stuff on there is NOT something that needs prepsol or some other petrol based goody to get it off, just PLAIN old warm water and soap (or car wash).

We get lots of mechanics and Panel beaters telling us we sent them a defective one

BOON250 · 25-12-2007, 11:34 PM

Well had my AU for almost 3 months and it seems to be on a mission to p**** me off this week. Cruise randomly switches on/off. Cruise +set button packed up. Temp gauge reading erratic. Idling rough when cold. MDC on the fritz. and to top it off the rack has started leaking badly. I guess its all easy fix stuff but to happen all in one week Geeezz

:

**SSD-85** · 03-01-2008, 11:55 AM

Hello all, there is a problem with my au2 xr6 vct im finally starting to get sick of, when i start it up it has a lot of difficulty turning over, it doesnt happen everytime, its purely random, hot or cold, flat or hill, doesnt seem to matter, i have a suspicion its the battery, but my previous car; an au2 fairmont did the same thing, ive had an au1 and an au3 without any such troubles. i use 98ron fuel if that helps. any advice would be a great help since i dont imagine the guys at ford having a clue...

poolkeeper · 03-01-2008, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeHaveIgnition

Hello all, there is a problem with my au2 xr6 vct im finally starting to get sick of, when i start it up it has a lot of difficulty turning over, it doesnt happen everytime, its purely random, hot or cold, flat or hill, doesnt seem to matter, i have a suspicion its the battery, but my previous car; an au2 fairmont did the same thing, ive had an au1 and an au3 without any such troubles. i use 98ron fuel if that helps. any advice would be a great help since i dont imagine the guys at ford having a clue...

I have the same problem, I replaced the battery still does it.

Sleeperau · 03-01-2008, 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WeHaveIgnition

Hello all, there is a problem with my au2 xr6 vct im finally starting to get sick of, when i start it up it has a lot of difficulty turning over, it doesnt happen everytime, its purely random, hot or cold, flat or hill, doesnt seem to matter, i have a suspicion its the battery, but my previous car; an au2 fairmont did the same thing, ive had an au1 and an au3 without any such troubles. i use 98ron fuel if that helps. any advice would be a great help since i dont imagine the guys at ford having a clue...

I would take a look at yout leads & coil. People usually forget about them, they don't last forever. Leads usually start to go downhill at the 100k mark & age will also affect them.

Nutcase · 05-01-2008, 06:06 PM

Radiator developed a pinhole leak which seems to be common on the AU. Took it to an Adrad reseller for a replacement, about $260 for a new Adrad radiator fitted and the cooling system flushed and filled with new coolant and pressure tested. They offered to come and get me from my home about 15 mins drive away when the car was ready.

congo3sr · 05-01-2008, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nutcase

Radiator developed a pinhole leak which seems to be common on the AU. Took it to an Adrad reseller for a replacement, about $260 for a new Adrad radiator fitted and the cooling system flushed and filled with new coolant and pressure tested. They offered to come and get me from my home about 15 mins drive away when the car was ready.

now thats service.

:

27-01-2008, 11:31 AM

AU Series I, 4.0
(all distances are approximate)

LSD - Severe knocking and binding
150,000km - Replacement of diff carrier and bearings

Starter motor
150,000km - Intermittant failure of unit - Would fail to engage (solenoid and electric drive motor)

Leaking power steering rack (from RHS seal)
180,000km - Remove rack, flush the pump and replace entire rack with change over unit. Also, replace sensor. Check around. Replacement units can cost about $350 supplied, not fitted (I checked with my local Repco and they quoted $500, supplied only, not fitted). I managed to get one for $200 with 12-month warranty.

Front hub carriers (LHS & RHS)
200,000km - A clicking noise (kinda like putting playing cards on a push-bike spoke) and vibration under braking. Attributed to worn hub carrier bearings.
NOTE: Check eBay for replacement units - Mechanics I've spoken to reckon they can only get them at about $300 PER SIDE (non-Ford OEM, supplied only, not fitted)... I picked up a pair (non-Ford OEM) from a supplier in Sydney for $160 for a pair, delivered through eBay.

mailmann · 07-02-2008, 06:16 PM

My AU series 111 SR just lunched the rite hand ceal on the power stearing rack.This is the 2nd time in 13 mnths now!Lucky the 3 year harrier warranty is still current.Booked into the service people for another replacement rack on tuesday.The original rack failed at 80,000kms and it,s only just clicked over 98,000 kms.These racks are a real problem in the au,s.So all i,m waiting for now is the radiator to fail and i will have had just about every faiure listed in these forums.

27-01-2008, 12:32 PM

Oh, and I forgot this...

Coil-pack and HT Leads
170,000km - Sudden onset of an ignition miss without warning (miss occured at all speeds, and was not dependent upon engine RPM). Costanzo Ford (Greensborough) identified fault - I was initially concerned because a friend had replaced a coil pack in their Mazda MX5 for $500 - Was plesantly suprised that coil pack and leads only cost $350 fitted. Was even more suprised that Costanzo Ford were able to fix the problem on Saturday for me, the day I was driving back to Wagga Wagga, NSW.

blackers10 · 07-02-2008, 07:42 PM

sorry to hear mailmann
but eh least uve replaced everything so should be happy motoring for a fair few more kays now!

Tradewind · 10-02-2008, 12:54 AM

Only had my AU S2 Ute since Xmas 07, got 130 000 km on it, has had a very tough life - started with an out back shire council!!

So far:

Freeze plug failure, let all water out instantly. Got a new Stainless plug for $4.50 and fitted it myself and refilled with coolant $45.00

The A/C seems to be getting suss, could this be the compressor dying? I was a touch noisey a while back but quiet again now and not working so well. A new compressor for the shopping list?

Replaced all the shocks/struts but I always do that when I get a second hand car no matter how good they see.

Also fitted RDA slotted rotors and Bendix Premium pads, the stock rotors were bit shaky when hot.

Thinking plug leads soon.

Replaced plugs with Iridium from Ford - another thing I normally replace anyhow.

Otherwise going well and very good fuel economy on cruise 12.7km/L

coledog · 10-02-2008, 06:56 PM

how do you train new keypad for an au series 2 futura sedan local dealer wants an hours labour

14-02-2008, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by coledog

how do you train new keypad for an au series 2 futura sedan local dealer wants an hours labour

If it's anything like the AU1, tell him he's dreaming

: It takes about 5 minutes... I got a quote from Hillis Ford, Wagga Wagga for a new keyring fob - $90. After 2 minutes on eBay, I'd saved myself $70. Instructions for "training" a new keypad should be in the car's original handbook.

BTW, if you're in the NSW Riverina, avoid Hillis Ford - My second-hand AU missed the "major" recall fix

: ... It wasn't until an official Ford letter letting me know that the work hadn't been completed did I get it done - at the superior Ford dealer in Culcairn (about 100kms towards Albury)!

coledog · 16-02-2008, 02:49 PM

i havent got an owners book and the au1 is not the same to train fob, unfortunately there is only 1 dealer in 130ks

Nunnya · 17-04-2008, 10:20 PM

Did you sort the keypad issue out? Maybe I can help, if required.

16-02-2008, 06:09 PM

Let this be a warning to others...

Changed front right wheel bearing on my Series I AU as per RonWest's informative and helpful instructions listed in the "tech" section...

All went well until replacing the brake caliper. Upper caliper bolt went in and was torqued to 30nm. Lower caliper bolt snapped off waaaay before 30nm was reached. So... now I have a brake caliper that can't be removed because of the snapped bolt.. Only one thing to do - disassemble brake caliper. Start by releasing bleed nipple. Then undo banjo-bolt. SNAP. Banjo-bolt broke in half.

Now, before any of you assume they were over tightened, read on...

The snapped lower caliper bolt was undone and removed from the stub axle by nothing more than a cheap set of multi-grips.
The remains of the banjo bolt was removed by hand.

It's now Saturday night, in Devonport Tasmania. Being on this lonely isolated island with no suppliers open past 2pm on Saturday until Monday means I'm stuffed.

Lessons learnt:
1- Make sure you have replacement parts for all bolts, a good set of mult-grips, and a drill with a some appropriate tappers if all else goes pear shape!
2- Consider another model of vehicle with slide-in replacement wheel bearings (TD Cortina, anyone? lol)

samsam · 27-04-2009, 06:02 PM

can anyone help me my cruse wont work i have read that i need to chect that all brake light need to be working and they are but still no cruise
please help
and i also need help with setting up a keless entry remote

samsam · 28-04-2009, 12:02 PM

Can anyone help i have a au III Fairtmont and the cruise doesnt work at all
does anyone know what to do

i also need to reprogram keyless entry remote