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Old 05-10-2009, 01:04 PM   #1
MEANXBCOUPE
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Originally Posted by gtxb67
Thank you very much, youve solved the problem.
The spring goes were i thought it did, i didnt want to jam it in thought.
Thanks again
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Old 16-12-2009, 12:58 PM   #2
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just a quick update, sorry no photos.

Since we all got back from Echuca, work has been flat out and then christmas crash tackles you!
I have been busy with the coupe. I was hoping to register it before the end of year, but, thats not going to happen. looks like Late feb early March. Why?

Well as i had said in an earlier post, most of the rear half of the interior has been pulled out and changed. we now have matching bucket seats in the back.
This required,
New seat belts, enertia reel front and back,
Removal of the stereo gear,
Removal of a lot of braces for the old racing harnesses,
Moving of the brake boosters.
I needed to make,
Spreader plates for the new seat mounts
Buy new seats and modify ( cut 200mm off the top and 25 mm out of the centers of the back to fit in the coupe, as they hit the roof)
Make new booster brakets,
Make fill panels between the seats and the seat door trim area.
Installed another 7" monitor and moved the PS2 to the rear of the car for my boy to use.
This all started because i went to see an engineer to register the car in its previous guise as a two seater, he said if your going to eventually convert back to a four seater, do it now so it wont need to be re engineered.

As a result, i've had him out to look over the car and it has passed for full street rego, barring a noise and brake test...
Noise, knew i'd be over the limit, now making changes to the system to quieten it down a bit.
Brakes, I had just mooved the boosters the day i rang to book the engineer for an inspection, it was a week later that i got around to bleeding the brakes and getting the car started again (it had been a month), this was the day before the inspection. sure enough, Murphy attacked again! The little rubber hose that controls vacuum from a valve in the (new) boosters had split and was allowing air pressure to leek in to the booster diaphram, result, locked front brakes! ie no brake test possible :

Any ways, that issue is now sorted after ringing the supplier. They sent a replacement part that day.

Coupe is due for a retrim in mid January, noise and brake test to follow and from there its through the rego process, so who knows how long that will take!!
Ive even got new number plates chosen.

Cheers for now
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Old 16-12-2009, 02:38 PM   #3
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Hi Gary,

Thanks for the update. Phew..... looks like lots of work to do. Still, it'll be nice to have it registered so you can take it out and enjoy it any time you like.

Was great to meet you and the coupe at Echuca.

Cheers, Craig.
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Old 22-12-2009, 10:38 PM   #4
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Has Lachlan confiscated the keys yet??

Great to hear you have got it all happening Gary. Keep us updated
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Old 24-12-2009, 02:45 PM   #5
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Merry Christmas To All For Tommorrow!!!
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Old 24-12-2009, 03:04 PM   #6
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Merry Christmas To All For Tommorrow!!!
merry christmas gary (and to everyone else of course) and hopefully you have a very happy new year and get to show us all what your beast is capable of

the show is great enough, but the go as well . . . . wow
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Old 03-01-2010, 01:33 PM   #7
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yeah, well ive got a long ways to go with that. the motor in the car is a little fragile. hopefully after this rego thing is out of the way, i'll get stuck back into the new motor again and fire up this thread once more!!
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:39 AM   #8
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Hi all,
We managed to recover some shots from earlier in the year, that were thought lost in the crash of our laptop, i'll post with a small comment as most have already been written about and you would have seen at Echuca.
Unfortunatley, the manufacturing shots were lost it seems, ie the heater tap and dizzy shots, oh well.

Brass fittings, before polishing (cant see them anyway)

These are the brass fittings i made to adapt earls fittings to your heater box without using hose clamps.



This is the same fitting but in 316 stainless, tig welded to some 5/8" 316 tube for the heater hose. the bottom hose is already connected to the fittings.



An over all shot. brackets tiged to the tube hold it to the end blower studs.





This is the "billet" heater tap, it is made to accept the factory control cable, this was fun to make, pity it is hidden behind the blower case! at least I know its there!!

And the whole system before installation.


This is the mess i had after removing the heater box to paint and silver solder the new connections on. I had to cut so many wires to get it out, but i didnt want to remove the dash to do it. Man, this took a week to sort out. As i said before, the heater box was the first thing i installed when the shell got painted so wiring and such were all installed over the top of it!


The painted heater box and ducting (previously black)


And a shot of the heater tap behind the blower case.
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Old 04-01-2010, 10:47 AM   #9
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Amazing stuff Gary. The amount of one off stuff is huge and the amount of earls fittings would be enough to fund a small country! Keep the pics coming



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Old 04-01-2010, 07:26 PM   #10
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our mate gaz doesn't mess around a true perfectionist
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:58 PM   #11
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hey Colin,
Rumor has it that its on again, i'm calling it "Parched as Bro'",2011.
Should be bringing the boys with us next year, ie Rooney and Nabs.

mmm, may need more beer next time....
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Old 09-01-2010, 08:46 PM   #12
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Jesus Gary im blinded buy all the bling,looking great mate: )
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:37 AM   #13
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Jesus Gary im blinded buy all the bling,looking great mate: )
Yeah, thanks Pat.
Its all a means to an end, full NSW Rego.Might as well have it looking good instead of an add on.
The engineer has been out and signed off on the car with a few points outstanding, im fixing those now. it will require the motor to come out again. This is to wrap the extractors with heat wrap isulation, darn things wont come out with the motor in. Also put a balance pipe in the exhaust system and 2 extra mufflers as well to quieten it down a bit.

So, ive got a credit card bill to pay off then its off to the trimmers to get the rear seats trimmed, then rego.
I can almost tast it!!.
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Old 12-01-2010, 10:40 AM   #14
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mate well done: )be great to hopefully see the car hooning around on the streets :
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MEANXBCOUPE
hey Colin,
Rumor has it that its on again, i'm calling it "Parched as Bro'",2011.
Should be bringing the boys with us next year, ie Rooney and Nabs.

mmm, may need more beer next time....
oooooohhhhhh yeah... yes more beer may be required
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:56 PM   #16
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gaz give me a call when you want to pull the donk out so i can give you a hand i can help you pull the motor out and you can help me drink the beer i bring over
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Old 14-01-2010, 12:14 PM   #17
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Gunna start disconnecting every thing duing the rest of this week, pick up the hoist from Deano's place, then just gotta work out a time to do it.
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Old 17-01-2010, 06:25 PM   #18
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started pulling stuff off the motor in readdyness for pulling it out next weekend (sorry Colin).
Also got a new engine stand to put it on for the time its out, that makes a total of three i own now!!.

Had a good look and i think ill be able to pull the extractor out with out pulling the motor, but there is a small oil leak that is sh&#ting me, so it will come out anyways.

Gunna see if the 'zorst comes out first but, just for future reference.
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Old 24-01-2010, 06:42 PM   #19
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passenger extrator comesout, drivers doesnt, even removed the engine mount bolts and jacked it up and sidways. no luck.

Found the small oil leak, manifold hadnt seal up against the block at the rear near the oil sender. easy fix.


Now out with the motor.....
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Old 01-02-2010, 10:43 AM   #20
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update.

Motors out.with only one scratch, up under the tranny tunnel.
Found a few issues ill sort whilst its out.
Oil leak, back of the manifold, took it to work and took a few thou off the manifold faces to true it up and about 125 thou off the ends where it seals to the horizontal block face. i dont use either the cork of rubber gaskets here just a fine bead of 225 sikaflex urethane. sorted.

Exhaust leak. cylinders 1 and 7 had an exhaust leak at the face of the block. Not too much i can do, but will be using a sealant when the extractors go back on instead of dry gaskets. also brought some grade 12, 12 point bolts and hardened machine washers to use instead of "extractor" bolts, these are stronger and use a 3/8" spanner or socket to drive, the washers i hope will allow me to spread the load better. Sent them off for nickel plating, and dont they look great. Nickel shouldnt crack off like chrome as it is softer and isnt as thick, plenty of copper antisieze will help.
Will be making new extractor for the new motor anyway, probley out of stainless. ill use 10mm plate for the flanges so i dont have to crank too hard on the exhaust bolts in the aluminium heads and go down to 1 7/8" primaries from 2". will need to make some transitions to the new AFD heads as well.

Stripped thread in the bellhousing. dunno how or why, just is. A 7/16" UNC Helicoil sorted it out.

Found a small oil leak from the gearbox layshaft, behind the bellhousing. will sort this out too.

Cleaned down the engine and bay. After towing the coupe 2000Km to Echuca and back, the engine and engine bay were coated in a fine layer of deisel soot from the tow car. (entire underside of car too!)

Radiator overflow pipe. it pulled out of the radiator neck, the solder broke. might be a job for arildite or metal magic as i dont want to repaint the radiator fron soldering with a torch..

So....

Originally pulled the motor to wrap the extractors for the engineer to pass the car for NSW rego. i have used black extractor wrap, 50 feet of 1" wide and about 15 feet if 2" wide. this has done one side only. so its back to Rocket industries on Friday if i get the chance to pick up some more and some more clamps as well. It doesnt look too bad, but i much prefer unwrapped pipes.
Will wrap the passenger side extractor next week and reload the motor the next weekend.

Then its back onto the interior work, then on to the trimmers..

Last edited by MEANXBCOUPE; 01-02-2010 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 01-02-2010, 04:56 PM   #21
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congratulations on pulling it out with only 1ding : every time i do stuff like that it looks like some one took to my car with a hammer: (good luck with the rego gents
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:10 AM   #22
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congratulations on pulling it out with only 1ding : every time i do stuff like that it looks like some one took to my car with a hammer: (good luck with the rego gents
Scratch Pat, not ding. I would still be crying if i dinged it!!
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Old 01-02-2010, 11:46 PM   #23
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Got any pics of the bolts nickel plated Gary? Good to see you are still getting into it.
Looking forward to catching up with you guys again.

I hear Trev is thinking of coming to the next Echuca?
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Old 04-02-2010, 10:12 AM   #24
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Got any pics of the bolts nickel plated Gary? Good to see you are still getting into it.
Looking forward to catching up with you guys again.

I hear Trev is thinking of coming to the next Echuca?
Yes it is heavely rumoured that Trev may appear!

I'll get on to taking some photos
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Old 14-02-2010, 01:28 PM   #25
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I hear Trev is thinking of coming to the next Echuca?
"I recon its his shout" :sm_headba

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Old 06-02-2010, 01:16 PM   #26
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if the rain would clear up, im ready to swing it motor back in.....

Goto start putting the old brain back into interior mode again, kind of left it a bit as i wasnt happy with the design i came up with- little bit too "fast and furious" not enough "classy muscle". So i went about doing the mechanical stuff.

Should have some pics up soon!.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:29 PM   #27
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As promised, photos!


the first is of the new bolts for the extractors.




And how they sit





The new bolts need a 12 point spanner/socket to tighten and use a 3/8 hex size, this is compared to a normal extractor bolt of the same thread, 3/8 UNC, using a 7/16 spanner or a normal hex bolt using 9/16 AF, should be slightly easier to do up.
They also have "machine" washers, which is saleman talk for ground and hardened washers. a trick i used was making them out of 5/16 washers, drilling out the holes to 3/8" giving a smaller outside dimension allowing them to fit much better!. Also they are nickel coated as posted prevoiusly, first time ive used this and i got to say looks tops!, looks a little yellow/goldish than the straight chrome finish, and the fact that there isnt the layer of chrome on top, it shouldnt crack and rust (i hope).



Here is a shot of the extractors wrapped up. 2 things, not too happy on the looks of wrapped extractors and it sucked doing it!. i was warned, so i soaked the roll of insulation in cold water before starting as the black wrap is only carbon on the white wrap as far as i can tell, so it would get everywhere if it was dry whilst wrapping. having said that it was still a messy job. used the correct clamps, next time ill use stainless MIG wire to tie it off, would work out cheaper and look just as good if done right. Hope fully it will keep some heat out of the engine bay a bit.

Originally i was only going to do the bits that the engineer suggested were too close, ie exhaust to steering column and exhaust to steering rack boots, so i brought a 50 foot roll of 1 inch wide wrap and a 50 foot roll of 2 inch wide wrap.
I changed my mind and decided to do the whole lot, it cost me anothe roll of 1 inch and a second packet of ties!. total cost close to $370.00 :


Also a shot of the helicoil in the bellhousing done.



While i had to motor out i cleaned up the clutch slave cylinder and gave it a once over with the buffing wheel, also made a new push rod for it that is adjustable, out of 316 stainless. didnt get too crazy about it, just enough to clean it up, also polished and painted the starter motor and spacer as well as adding stainless bolts to neaten up the install.




This is a photo of the manifold. put two new 45* fittings in as the old ones leaked fuel/air. they had gotten mixed up with other fittings and were BPS thread instead of NPT, which the manifold was tapped for. Should mention that these are the line for the boost referencing for the carbies.
the other fitting, not connected is for the boost gauge.


Also the under side of the maniflod where i milled some off to straighten it out a bit and give some room for the sikaflex to adhere to.

.

So thats about it for the moment, slot the motor in and re install the 'zorst, fire it up. then on to the interior again as said..

Cheers.
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Old 06-12-2010, 09:43 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=MEANXBCOUPE]

hi gary

love your work, coupe looks great!

can you tell me more about your dizzy setup, brand etc? trying to find something similar for my 460

cheers!
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:15 AM   #29
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Watch that header wrap mate, I've read a few articles from the US and they reckon it makes mild steel headers rust out fast.
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Old 09-02-2010, 10:17 AM   #30
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yeah, ive been told the same.

its to get the thing through engineering/rego, once thats out of the way, maybe another solution. But for the moment its a quick fix.
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