free advice on the 83-87 telstar

[Holbrookau]

Also I found you cant run a leaded engine with auto on pure unleaded

Been running unleaded in my daughters '85 auto AR for a couple of years now - no problems at all.

[dirty hands]

Holbrookau want to share the info
about timing carburation valve settings?
did you do the head up ?

[dirty hands]

well mine was the 1984 2 litre 3 speed auto gl with air con carby leaded
no power steering standard tyres no modifications

its true the car will run on unleaded but not very well in my case
made a trip from brisbane to melbourne - not good on unleaded for mileage

you will find over time the valve stems might wear and you will need to
recondition the head if you are not using the leaded suppliment

what I found was I needed more acceleration and after doing fuel consumption figures I found it was costing me more to use unleaded than when super was availiable
the car certainly lost more than 10 percent power loss on unleaded
no matter what settings I used
head was done up carby rebuilt new timing belt
adjusted timing during that testing period and no better

see what you come back with ?

[Holbrookau]

To be honest nothing was changed, timing is fine and mixture is probably no different. She normally runs the car on 91 unleaded but occasionally puts a tank of premium through, although it (premium) nor LRP seem to give appreciable power gains and fuel consumption has been pretty much the same on all types of fuel. Never used additives in the 2 years she has owned the car.
I did put a carby kit through it some 18 months ago but that was mainly to fix a crook needle & seat and apart from replacing the timing belt the motor hasn't been touched. No doubt I'll have to do the head at some stage (if she hasn't upgraded before then) but at this point all is looking OK.
Just for info - its a TX5 Ghia but no air or power steer and has about 240,000 kms on it now.

[dirty hands]

good thats the answer then

with the air con on it certainly took the power away

dont know if the TX5 ghia had a better gearbox ratio or diff ratio

[Holbrookau]

No doubt A/C would be a big factor in power & fuel usage if you use it often. The Telstar/626 is not a light car (the TX5 hatchback more so), couple that with a carby motor & auto and extras such as A/C and they really are underpowered for Aussie conditions.
In regards to gearbox/diff in the TX5. I dont have the specs here but I would doubt they would be much differant to other models - no overdrive and a diff ratio that has the motor doing near 3500 at 110kph (South Australian speed limit) is not condusive to good fuel consumption!

[minux]

Quick question, have a KC laser which use as a work car (great little car i might add) other day i went out to start it and power was completly dead. Tried jumping it, nothing it just turn's over maybe 1 or 2 cycle's then die's. Wondering if it is possible it could be the starter motor? The power drain's instantly as soon as the car is turned over and the battery will not hold any charge. Won't roll or tow start seem's as if something is draining the power before it can even run?? Any idea's?

[Holbrookau]

Try fitting a known good battery..

[dirty hands]

if a cell fails the current will not flow through

do you have a volt meter
put it across the poles when cranking see how much the battery drains

also check that the alternator is charging the battery

the starter can drain the battery if the solenoid is faulty

[minux]

Originally Posted by dirty hands

if a cell fails the current will not flow through

do you have a volt meter
put it across the poles when cranking see how much the battery drains

also check that the alternator is charging the battery

the starter can drain the battery if the solenoid is faulty

Battery is fine, have used 2 different batterie's of which both work on other car's fine, alternator was just replaced.

Just need it going, cost's far too much to drive my car too work

[dirty hands]

bump because i am back

[dirty hands]

then its a faulty starter motor

pm vippen he is the laser guru he will know whats going on

we were talking about a faulty ignition on the first page
there is a wire going to the thermatic fan on some wiring diagramms
if that fan is faulty that will drain the battery also

ok see how you go

[dirty hands]

some tune up info is on page one near the bottom
got valve adjustment
rpm for manual 800 +- 50
rpm for auto 900+- 50 i think i had mine at 1000 because of the air con
head bolts 88 nm
water pump is internal so its harder to see if its leaking run off the timing belt
bit of a job to fit a new one but not impossible
and luckily the gearbox can be removed from underneath the car without taking the motor out yipeee

servicing simply put

10,000km service minimum
change engine oil and filter . adjust valves ,check drive belt deflection
20,000 renew fuel filter
40,000km drain and change coolant, air filter,gearbox oil,spark plugs
brake fluid and bleed,repack bearings .
100000 renew cam belt
during that time
as required brake pads, leads ,cap ,vacumme lines fuel lines belts .tyres
suspension hub bearings cv and rubber dust and grease boots

then go from there and work out everything past the 200000km by that servicing interval

[dirty hands]

front hub bearing

I was able to use arubber mallet /or neoprene hammer and tap the two parts of the hub apart without any problem
evenly so the hub pieces can apart without forcing them
the book states use a hub seperator ?

then regreased the bearing and putting in new seals then refitting
no worries
the macpherson struts can be removed in one piece without special equipment just undo the 2 bolts on the steering knuckle after undoing the three smaller nutsin the engine bay
if you intend lowering or reconditioning the units yourself then a spring compressor and much care will be needed and a rattle gun for the main strut nut at the top .

[dirty hands]

back to page one
bump cause I dont have a sticky :

[dirty hands]

back to page one
bump cause I dont have a sticky :

[meanbow]

been a while since i been on here, but i thought i'd give everyone an update on my '83 telstar.
since i've had it...i replaced lots of bits to get the car running perfectly again, and added a few nice bits to it as well to aid fuel consumption.
if it's available over there in oz, try looking out for a neat little device called the ecotec CB26-P, it's cut fuel consumption right down, and has also fixed the warm start problem mentioned earlier on in this thread...and as for the aformentioned dashboard problem i was bugging everyone over, it seems to have been fixed. i must have pulled the dash out so many times and pulled it apart i must know it off by heart(by the way, it was a couple of broken pins on the digital speed display was causing it all, which a little bit of solder fixed)
if i can get a new lead for my digital camera, i'll upload some photo's of the car i took of it at a classic car show i attended...damn i got sick of being asked what it was that day!

[dirty hands]

when you post a reply or ask a question everyone learns something :

[dirty hands]

finally found a forum that has more wiring info mazda and telstar are close
so try

http://www.mx6.com

they have a radio section all made up with instructions and conversions

[dirty hands]

This is only one possibility as wiring changes happen with different cars
it is reccomended a continuity light and a volt meter still be used to trace the relevant wires so you dont blow the unit you are installing
use your common sense :togo:
print out and photo copy to size or move to software you can magnify

[dirty hands]

Meanbow the good welsh lad :newangel:
just finished stripping off the panels on his '83 Telstar and reviewed the wiring he did and this is what he came up with,
Meanbow always says
use a multimeter/circuit tester as well to confirm the correct wiring :

Telstar(GC/GD Platform) radio wiring
Light Green - Permenant live
Dark Green - Ignition live
Red/Green stripe - night illumination(light circuit)
Black - Ground/Earth

Speakers
Front right
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with Green - Positive

Front left
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with Orange - Positive

Rear right
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with Red - Positive

Rear left
Blue/Brown - Negative
Blue/Brown with White - Positive

[Strop]

Recently purchased a 87 ford telstar (automatic). The car is very difficult to warm up. I have noticed that it is fitted with a thermatic (electric) fan. The thermatic fan is operating the moment the car is started. Would this be causing it to take so long tp warm up? If the car is not allowed to warm up for a minimum of 5 minutes, it stalls at every corner & set of lights where the revs drop top near idle. Can you offer any advice?

[dirty hands]

take the thermostat out and check that is there is one
that it is working
and the right one

someone must have direct wired the thermo fan and bypassed the relay and temp sensor for it to run straight away when cold
if you have the knowlage trace the thermo wires see where they hook up to
correct connection set up

then recheck the automatic choke settings

idle adjustment and choke settings need to be correct
to stop the stall/cutting out when cold

[dirty hands]

all the telstars running well thats good :

[telstar85AS]

thought i had a problem but all is good now.

[89 S-PACK]

ive just recently bought a 86 telstar sedan... manual of course

i took it in for rwc and theres a few things ive gotta replace
outer cv boots
all the brake line hoses
and the right front control arm bushes

th ething is i dont have an gregorys workshop manual yet.. and i need the tensionwrench settings for -
- the nuts on the end of the cv joints( the ones that bolt to the wheel hub )
- and the lower control arm bush bolts

some places ive spoken to have just told me to do them up tight but i want to do it properly and by the factory settings

[dirty hands]

the nuts on the end of the cv joints( the ones that bolt to the wheel hub )
front hub nut is 240 nm
the nut should only be used once if you see a groove on the stub axle
you use a screwdriver and hit the nut into that groove after tension to lock the nut in place
or it may just be a spring washer and split pin castellated nut type

the lower control arm bush bolts (no listing for bush bolts)
Suspension unit /control arm
if the bolts a thick then use 119 nm if smaller use 30 nm

other torque setting for that area
Control arm inner mounting nuts 119 nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle 119 nm
Suspension unit to body 30 nm
Ball joint nut 55 nm
Tie rod end nut 45 nm

[89 S-PACK]

Originally Posted by dirty hands

the nuts on the end of the cv joints( the ones that bolt to the wheel hub )
front hub nut is 240 nm
the nut should only be used once if you see a groove on the stub axle
you use a screwdriver and hit the nut into that groove after tension to lock the nut in place
or it may just be a spring washer and split pin castellated nut type

the lower control arm bush bolts (no listing for bush bolts)
Suspension unit /control arm
if the bolts a thick then use 119 nm if smaller use 30 nm

other torque setting for that area
Control arm inner mounting nuts 119 nm
Suspension unit to steering knuckle 119 nm
Suspension unit to body 30 nm
Ball joint nut 55 nm
Tie rod end nut 45 nm

thanks for your help... now ive just gotta put it all back together on monday afternoon

but how many litres of trans fluid does the 4spd manual gearbox hold???
2 litres came out but theres been evidence mines been leaking around the speedo drive

[meanbow]

Hi there all...i'm in need of assistance in the removal of the front headlamps on my '83 telstar

i need to get the units out to change the headlamp bulbs, as i think mine are blown, as i have no high beams....yet my Driving lamps are still working when i engage high beams or flasher. i've already tested the circuits, and there is current going to all the right places...yet do you think i can get the stupid bulbs out to check them?? :jab:
one one side...i have the aircon pipes and washer/expansion tanks, on the other, the battery. so as far as i can tell...you need to take the units out to change the bulbs.
even the manual i got for the equivelant Mazda 626 mentions removing the headlamps, yet i can't really see how they come out in the first place

any advice/help would be apreciated, as the car is going in for an M.O.T in a few weeks

[dirty hands]

[QUOTE=meanbow]Hi there all...i'm in need of assistance in the removal of the front headlamps on my '83 telstar

the manual assumes you have already removed or got the extras out of the way
so yes you are correct
washer/expansion tanks, on the other, the battery. so as far as i can tell...you need to take the units out to change the bulbs

do the bulbs first before going to all the trouble of removing the lamps etc

dont touch the surface of the headlight bulb --the finger print left blows the bulb within days (dont ask me why )

I came across a quirk the rubber boot sometimes pulls out the wire connection to the headlight bulb on its own I was driving a long and I thought the bulb had blown and it was the wire connector coming off the bulb all the time so I took the boot off for a while and no problem

so you have the mounting brackets and undo the securing nuts and the manual says to remove the head lamp and turn signal as one unit