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Old 27-11-2009, 07:00 PM   #31
elgreko
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Default Tdci Oil

What's the best oil for a TDCI?????
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Old 04-12-2009, 03:59 PM   #32
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Speaking of TDCI, whats the go with their oil filter cartridge? Whats the procedure to change the filter on a TDCI?
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Old 04-12-2009, 06:26 PM   #33
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The castrol web site recommends CASTROL EDGE SPORT 5W-30
for the 2007 -2008 model TDCI but if you have the Particulate filter in the 2008-9 model they suggest CASTROL EDGE SPORT 0W-40
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Old 07-03-2010, 02:06 PM   #34
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Did an oil change on our LT Focus yesterday. Used Valvoline Durablend 5W-30 semi synthetic oil this time.

The oil sump drain plug was a b*tch of a thing to get off though. Stupid Ford mechanic must have had gorilla arms when he did it up at the 3000km check and oil change. Next time the car's in for a service i'm going to mention to the service advisor to make sure they don't weld the bloody drain plug to the sump!
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Old 12-03-2010, 02:03 PM   #35
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Thanks "mohit"
I did oil change using your step by step guide.
Just one thing though. The Focus manual shows different points for jack stands. It seems to me that you put jack stands under engine's handles.
Personally I followed manual's advice on placing jack stands which is near the jack on both side of the vehicle.
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Old 12-03-2010, 02:17 PM   #36
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Mohit, the sump drain plug might of been tight from Factory, not when the mechanic did the 3,000km check. Just a thought yeah? As I am a Ford Mechanic, some of us aren't Gorilla type haha.

Also, I must admit the Focus is a pretty easy car to drain the oil, another thing for you. If you don't want the oil to drain over your hands when you undo the oil filter, get a screw driver and a hammer, and line the screwdriver up under the middle of the oil filter, and hit it with a hammer to puncture the oil filter to drain it out through the hole. Might help some of you.
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Old 12-03-2010, 09:22 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink
If you don't want the oil to drain over your hands when you undo the oil filter, get a screw driver and a hammer, and line the screwdriver up under the middle of the oil filter, and hit it with a hammer to puncture the oil filter to drain it out through the hole. Might help some of you.
The "screw driver into oil filter trick" sounds really nice! I wish I knew that at the time. But is that enough? I mean do I need to yet open the plug or it is enough to drain the oil?
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Old 12-03-2010, 11:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezab

Thanks "mohit"
I did oil change using your step by step guide.
Just one thing though. The Focus manual shows different points for jack stands. It seems to me that you put jack stands under engine's handles.
Personally I followed manual's advice on placing jack stands which is near the jack on both side of the vehicle.
There are a few different places you can position the jack stands. When i did the oil change on our LT last week i positioned the jack stands under the control arms instead, as pictured on this Mazda 3:



As long as the car is securely supported without damaging any under car areas you'll be right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wink

Mohit, the sump drain plug might of been tight from Factory, not when the mechanic did the 3,000km check. Just a thought yeah? As I am a Ford Mechanic, some of us aren't Gorilla type haha.
Would have definitely been at the 3000km check as the oil and filter were changed at this time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rezab

The "screw driver into oil filter trick" sounds really nice! I wish I knew that at the time. But is that enough? I mean do I need to yet open the plug or it is enough to drain the oil?
The plug lets the oil out of the oil sump (several liters). Just letting the oil drain out of the filter is not enough (few hundred milliliters).
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Old 14-03-2010, 10:55 PM   #39
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It's interesting that the LT service guide doesn't include an oil and filter change at the 3000 km service. You must have paid extra for that. I can't imagine the dealer giving you a freebie.
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Old 14-03-2010, 11:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Citwit

It's interesting that the LT service guide doesn't include an oil and filter change at the 3000 km service. You must have paid extra for that. I can't imagine the dealer giving you a freebie.
No manufacturer i know does an oil change at the first free check up. I've always asked for this to be done on all new cars we've bought in the past.

From memory it was $70 for an oil and filter change at the 3000km check for our LT Focus.
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Old 26-03-2010, 02:43 PM   #41
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The mrs XR5 got oil and filter changed at the 3000km "complimentary" service, which also included finishing the pre-delivery ie; removing the travel stops from the suspension! I specifically asked for the oil change at that time but I think its normal procedure anyway, also got the filter back when it was done to inspect for anything scary looking!
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Old 08-04-2010, 11:52 PM   #42
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Just some more on jacking points for the Focus LS/LT/LV:

Firstly, I stumbled across this a while ago on the net, it looks like it is from a workshop manual:




However, side-lift points are not always practical and there are some alternatives when using hydraulic jacks and jack stands that I have come across. The following pics are kindly 'borrowed' from the XR5 forums, backing up the jacking points that mohit selected:

Jacking points:



Jack stand points (as per Mohit's Mazda 3 pic)
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Old 28-10-2010, 08:09 PM   #43
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A good thread, has anyone got information/Pictures on changing oil on a TDCI focus. Used to have a go on my old car, and I would like to have the same know how with this car.
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:43 PM   #44
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I checked Ryco's web site and they list a different oil filter for the LT series, a Z632. LS is still showing as a Z418. LV is a Z632 also.
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:50 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imolator

I checked Ryco's web site and they list a different oil filter for the LT series, a Z632. LS is still showing as a Z418. LV is a Z632 also.
The last time i did an oil change on our LT was about 10 months ago, and at that time the Ryco site still didn't have a Z632 oil filter listing for the LT or LV.

FWIW, i used a Z418 LS filter on the LT without any issues. Makes sense as both the LS and LT use the same Motorcraft AFL4 factory filter.
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Old 04-01-2011, 12:18 PM   #46
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Yep its just plain weird, same factory filter but now ryco list a different one for both the LT and LV. It makes me wonder why they saw fit to make the change, as far as I know the engines are identical.
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Old 12-01-2011, 08:34 PM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imolator

Yep its just plain weird, same factory filter but now ryco list a different one for both the LT and LV. It makes me wonder why they saw fit to make the change, as far as I know the engines are identical.
Specs from the Ryco site
I don't think it would matter which filter you used

Part Z418
Height Overall 89.00mm
Inside Diameter Top 0.00mm
Inside Diameter Bottom 0.00mm
Outside Diameter Top 0.00mm
Outside Diameter Bottom 0.00mm
Seam Diameter 77.50mm
Seal Diameter 71.20mm
Thread 3/4-16-UNF-2B

Part Z632
Height Overall 86.00mm
Inside Diameter Top 0.00mm
Inside Diameter Bottom 0.00mm
Outside Diameter Top 0.00mm
Outside Diameter Bottom 0.00mm
Seam Diameter 77.60mm
Seal Diameter 71.00mm
Thread 3/4 -16-UNF-2B
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Old 12-01-2011, 09:14 PM   #48
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Here are the jacking points for the LR Focus



Courtesy of Focus Hacks
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Old 01-03-2011, 04:58 PM   #49
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Just for the need of an empty container you dont want to dump the oil in the engine over its capacity. Its ok if oil level is a bit low but its not ok if oil is a bit high. Excess oil in the engine causes more damage to the engine than less oil. Its a total misconception that filling a couple of 100ml oil is good for engine.

There were few debates on oil grades on AFF before but the fact is there is a reason behind an oil recommendation. When engine is cold started thin oil gets easily into cams, all thin and narrow places easily reducing friction and wear and tear and being fully synthetic it wont break down at high temps. No matter how good the oil is synthetic oil can not be replaced with ordinary oil. Non synthetic oil breaks down easily at high temps. I always go with the recommendation and using a grade above wont kill engine instantly or shortens engine life drastically. It depends how you use the car, right next to freeway and you start your car and jump on to freeway instantly every morning then yes it does make lot of difference with oil viscosity. Again end of the day its your choice.

There are many ways of doing things as long as you know what you are doing. Sticking screw driver is not advised with all filters. If a filter has thick deep thread inside then you might damage the it. And if you strip filter using screw driver and filter is still jammed in then you just made your job complicated. Use correct wrench or tools, metal expands when hot and makes it hard so let it cool down a bit.

Draining oil overnight would make your engine absolute dry and next time when you fill oil and start, it takes a while before oil reaches all parts of engine and until then its metal on metal. When an engine is rebuilt all parts are lubed before assembled to minimise the wear and tear in the first start. Instead of draining overnight do the next oil change before schedule. Same applies with engine flush. If engine is too dirty and you flush it then you are actually cleaning the deposits on the oil rings and then oil starts to get through the rings.

Am just sharing my knowledge and opinion being a qualified mechanic. No offence guys. cheers

Yogi
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Old 01-03-2011, 06:04 PM   #50
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Good contribution Yogi.

I'd give you rep points, but the icon seems to have disappeared
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Old 21-03-2011, 12:06 AM   #51
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

Could REDDYZ explain what problems are caused by slightly overfilling an engine with oil. I have been guilty of that one.
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Old 21-03-2011, 02:17 AM   #52
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Citwit
Could REDDYZ explain what problems are caused by slightly overfilling an engine with oil. I have been guilty of that one.
Depending on how much you overfill, the pressure will be increased and it effects seals and oil rings. Eventually if its an old engine, oil gets into combustion chamber and starts to burn. Too much pressure can effect head gasket too. New engines should cope slight overfill however its better to avoid as engines are not designed to hold extra oil. Fitting large sump and large oil filter (not sure about the pump though) would compensate this which actually increases the oil change intervals. But why would you want to carry more oil, means more weight.

Also excessive oil creates air bubbles in the engine which is not good for lubrication and might be hard to believe but if you put too much oil that could blow the engine.

cheers

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Last edited by REDDYZ; 21-03-2011 at 02:29 AM.
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Old 14-04-2011, 09:38 PM   #53
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

I just noticed that i have been using a ryco Z63 oil filter for about 15,000Kms as picked out and ensured by an autobarn rep that it was indeed the right one for my Ford Focus 2007 (Duratec).

Have i caused any damage? I was running fully synthetic oil (Castrol Edge Sport 5W-30) at the time if that makes any difference.
(Remember being told jokingly that you don't even need oil filters for synth oils as there is no mineral "junk" floating about)
The correct one for my car is in fact the Z418, here's some comparative pics of the two.



As you can see the z63 is much longer/taller than the z418.

I honestly don't know how i didn't notice the difference when i was changing them out in the first place.. perhaps i overlooked it due to the filter being disguised in oil as it sat to drain..
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Old 14-04-2011, 09:42 PM   #54
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by mohit
The last time i did an oil change on our LT was about 10 months ago, and at that time the Ryco site still didn't have a Z632 oil filter listing for the LT or LV.

FWIW, i used a Z418 LS filter on the LT without any issues. Makes sense as both the LS and LT use the same Motorcraft AFL4 factory filter.

i should really learn to read through these threads first before relying
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Old 14-04-2011, 11:29 PM   #55
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

To clear things up:

LR Focus:
Ryco Z63

LS Focus:
Motorcraft AFL4
Ryco Z418

LT / LV Focus:
Motorcraft AFL4
Ryco Z632
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Old 14-08-2011, 12:25 PM   #56
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by REDDYZ
There are many ways of doing things as long as you know what you are doing. Sticking screw driver is not advised with all filters. If a filter has thick deep thread inside then you might damage the it. And if you strip filter using screw driver and filter is still jammed in then you just made your job complicated. Use correct wrench or tools, metal expands when hot and makes it hard so let it cool down a bit.
many people do filters up too tight to start with, making their job that much more difficult come service time.

do the filter up until rubber seal makes contact and then only 1/4 -1/2 turn more. that is plenty.

with 12mnth service intervals, the filter comes off by hand. could still need a bit of 'oomph' but no drastic measures are required.
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Old 29-10-2011, 09:50 PM   #57
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

quiet angry today! Went to do my first oil change on the focus (have previously been taking it to the dealer) Up on the ramps, slide underneath, sump plug has been tightened by hercules and is mostly rounded... Didnt want to risk taking it off without a replacement plug. off to a mechanic it looks, just impossible to remove!
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Old 29-10-2011, 10:42 PM   #58
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

Use more muscles

Last edited by asdf1234; 29-10-2011 at 10:51 PM.
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Old 29-10-2011, 11:59 PM   #59
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Haha, thought I was going to POP a vessel I was trying that hard!
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Old 30-10-2011, 01:36 AM   #60
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Default Re: The Oil Change Thread

If you try again and get it, put some oil on it beforehand and well don't tighten it with 100nm of torque
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