Is the radiator stuffed?? (Pics) - Page 2

crakrz · 06-02-2012, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blueoval

In theory it should be ok. But the ecu will compensate and probably adjust itself with more fuel thinking the engine is too cold. That is my guess. im probably wrong.

What will happen is the thermos will still have the same set points. So what you will see (for example) while cruising in nice cool air, the needle will sit at the left half of the 'N', then when you sit in traffic or have the AC on during a hot day, the needle will rise to its usual point of the 'O'. So instead of a temp that basically stays around 198degf, it will fluctuate from 180degf to 198degf. The ECU see the engine as at full operating temp as anything above 170degf, so there will be no change in fuel consumption.

-Craig

Noddy · 06-02-2012, 07:56 PM

Craig I get the feeling from your post that the 198deg thermostat is preferable.
The thermo fans are less active now.
Would you replace it?

crakrz · 06-02-2012, 08:01 PM

Not at all Noddy, I have the same t/stat. You will just get a variation on the guage that you didn't have before, but nothing else. I only mentioned it so that you would now that this is normal. I lowered my fan settings a little to come on earlier, but your fans will switch on at the same temp as before.
So all is good, just drive it and enjoy.

-Craig

blueoval · 06-02-2012, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crakrz

What will happen is the thermos will still have the same set points. So what you will see (for example) while cruising in nice cool air, the needle will sit at the left half of the 'N', then when you sit in traffic or have the AC on during a hot day, the needle will rise to its usual point of the 'O'. So instead of a temp that basically stays around 198degf, it will fluctuate from 180degf to 198degf. The ECU see the engine as at full operating temp as anything above 170degf, so there will be no change in fuel consumption.

-Craig

Thanks for that clarification.

smally289 · 07-02-2012, 11:20 AM

If you want to stop the plastic tanks from cracking, drill a 1/8" hole in the mounting flange of the thermostat. This will allow a small amount of coolant to flow past the thermostat at all times, preventing thermal shock damage to the plastic tank. When left overnight, the coolant temp can drop very low (depending on ambient air temp obviously) and the first time the thermostat opens - bang - 90 degree coolant hits the plastic tank on the passenger side. This is why most tank problems are on that side.
After swinging spanners on Fords at dealerships for 23 years and having a mate that owns an ADRAD franchise, I can tell you this is real.

crakrz · 07-02-2012, 12:52 PM

Although the idea of drilling a hole has already been covered in an earlier post, I never thought about the thermal shock to the plastic before, only the air bleeding. Thanks for adding that part, that's a good thing to know.
-Craig

Noddy · 08-02-2012, 05:09 PM

Excellent! Tbh i wasn't too concerned if the thermostat had to be replaced due to the fact I need to decide whether to replace the "weak" factory valve springs or just bolt on some suitable AFR heads. The springs are always in the back of my mind when I take her for a run.*

Back to topic.*Both thermostats (old and new) already had bleed holes in them, with a little floating pin. The fans are still kicking in when I'm in traffic which I'm happy with.

Thanks,

Matt

rowan194 · 08-02-2012, 06:21 PM

The thermostat I recently put in also has the hole and small floating plastic ball attached through it, is that sufficient or does a separate hole need to be drilled?

smally289 · 08-02-2012, 06:33 PM

I'd go with a separate hole, or at a minimum, remove the plastic jigger.

b2tf · 08-02-2012, 08:13 PM

If I could ask a question related to this side of things:

At the moment I have drained all the coolant and have also removed the old (factory) thermostat from my XR8. The factory one has the hole in it also so I will copy that when I reinstall the new one, which doesnt come with one.

I have noticed that a surging type noise is evident coming from around the heater box area of the dash when driving, it sounds like air is stuck and pockets of it are moving around, but if the thermostat has the hole in it then shouldn't air not be an issue? The only other thing I can think of is a replacement header tank cap which I will grab on the weekend.

I plan to run the car with water from the hose just going through the system via the coolant tank until it comes out clear, then reconnect the bottom hose and fill with coolant. Is this correct?

And finally, who's running what coolant? I had Tectaloy Gold concentrate in there beforehand and I think I will go with it again but am open to suggestions.

galaxy xr8 · 08-02-2012, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by b2tf

If I could ask a question related to this side of things:

At the moment I have drained all the coolant and have also removed the old (factory) thermostat from my XR8. The factory one has the hole in it also so I will copy that when I reinstall the new one, which doesnt come with one.

I have noticed that a surging type noise is evident coming from around the heater box area of the dash when driving, it sounds like air is stuck and pockets of it are moving around, but if the thermostat has the hole in it then shouldn't air not be an issue? The only other thing I can think of is a replacement header tank cap which I will grab on the weekend.

I plan to run the car with water from the hose just going through the system via the coolant tank until it comes out clear, then reconnect the bottom hose and fill with coolant. Is this correct?

And finally, who's running what coolant? I had Tectaloy Gold concentrate in there beforehand and I think I will go with it again but am open to suggestions.

I have run Tectalloy Gold aswell, but I have just purchased some product's from Mainlube,
239 kit, radiator flush,
102, coolant.
The coolant has a higher % of eth Glycol then the Tectalloy Gold, and it's also anti freeze/boil, where as the Tectalloy is only anti boil.

crakrz · 08-02-2012, 11:01 PM

Aust, put a new heater tap on it while you are at it. A gates one. Only cost me $15. Mine split a while back and dropped its guts(coolant) all over the carpark at work in minutes. Lucky I wasn't out bush or similar. As for coolant, I use Nulon.
-Craig

Noddy · 10-02-2012, 01:17 AM

I used Nulon coolant as well. I've also been using their engine oils.

b2tf · 10-02-2012, 08:14 PM

What pressure do our cooling systems run at? Ellerys says 120-135kpa which sort of doesnt help as my factory radiator cap says 120kpa, but the replacement i have bought (which was specified for our cars) says to only run it on a 135kpa system. Can i use it or do I need a 120?

crakrz · 10-02-2012, 08:56 PM

It's neither here or there as you are running a lower temp now anyway. It's only a couple of psi difference.
-Craig

b2tf · 10-02-2012, 09:01 PM

Thanks!

Evgeni · 03-05-2012, 08:47 PM

Side tank on passenger side split this morning. Ordered one from Natrad today after reading this thread - they have gone up to $220. Can't really complain - managed 204000k's - 10 years old.
Will fit it on Sat...least I get to use my 1/4 inch electric impact driver lol.