Power Steering DryZaBone

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 02:52 AM

After a long drifting session in the wet the steering got really heavy, had a look and its fluid was empty. I filled it up again and did lock to lock a few times to work it through, and after three days its dry again and the heavy steering is back.
Tomorrow im gona get it up onto the ramps and have a look, does anyone know what would be the most likely problem? So i know what im looking for....
Will it keep happening every time i have a little fun?
Also does this happen to anyone else after a hard drive?
The bloody thing is also pullin to the left heaps now, i just got the alignment fixed a few months ago :(

EA2BA · 06-10-2005, 08:58 AM

check the switch on the rack they usually leak.

neb · 06-10-2005, 10:24 AM

yeah my brother's car has done the same thing.... where abouts is the switch on the rack? do you just buy a new seal for it and replace the seal? i still need to have a proper look at it

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 10:53 AM

can you see it when looking under the hood?
Or do i have to get under the car?

ChAmP-EAgHiA · 06-10-2005, 11:03 AM

yes my switch always goes, its on the drivers side of the engine down the bottom its got a plug in it, its coming out of the rack.

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 11:13 AM

ok, last night it was dry and i had to empty the bottle of fluid i had in my car, its was just a tiny bit...
Right now the fluid is absolutely full and is overflowing out the filler?!? what the heck!

niko · 06-10-2005, 11:13 AM

its can last 5000k's (new switch) or 30,000k's
there crap!

mines gone to,

Dezza · 06-10-2005, 11:23 AM

Yeah, mine did the pressure switch a couple of weeks ago. Was emptying the fluid out all over the carpark in under 2 days. (The fluid trails are still there) As mentioned, it is on the right hand side of the engine, down the bottom. You can see it and get to it from under the hood. Should take 10 to 15 minutes to replace it.

niko · 06-10-2005, 11:50 AM

apaprently all that switch does is bump up the revs under dry steering load...

mines unplugged with my manual setup (the connecter broke) and i havent had any issues watsoever, its more of an auto tranny thing.

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 12:07 PM

mine is a manual

Its a 1988 EA spak 5-spd

The steering is fine now, it sorted itself out. But i found where im losing fluid, on the passenger side of the car there is a leak coming from the rubber bootie on the rod. Im gona jack up that side and have a closer look. There is no leakage from the switch, although i might replace it because i have a unlic EA for parts. Only done 180,000kms so its switch is probably in better nick than mine (340,000kms)

Dezza · 06-10-2005, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niko

apaprently all that switch does is bump up the revs under dry steering load...

mines unplugged with my manual setup (the connecter broke) and i havent had any issues watsoever, its more of an auto tranny thing.

That's what I heard, but mine was leaking it all out of the pressure switch. Since replacing the switch, it's been good.

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 12:43 PM

are those rubber booties meant to fill up with fluid? because mine are :( its very much broken me thinks

InitialD · 06-10-2005, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TuMor

are those rubber booties meant to fill up with fluid? because mine are :( its very much broken me thinks

if your "Dust Cover" Boots on the rack are filling with fluid means its dead as a door nail. They are NOT suppose to fill with fluid, that means the seals have gone inside them. Time to visit the wreckers ;)

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 12:51 PM

yeah, they were filled up to the point of nearly bursting, i squezzed one and all the fluid ****ed out, both are stuffed :(((

InitialD · 06-10-2005, 12:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TuMor

yeah, they were filled up to the point of nearly bursting, i squezzed one and all the fluid ****ed out, both are stuffed :(((

LOL yep its dead. When you get one from a wreckers try to get a clean looking one if you take it out of the car yourself. Ive recently had to try 3 different racks in my car to find one that works

:

niko · 06-10-2005, 01:09 PM

why dont u just pull one apart and put new o rings in it, had to do that with my last rack worked a treat ;)

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niko

why dont u just pull one apart and put new o rings in it, had to do that with my last rack worked a treat ;)

Everyone ive talked to said thats more trouble than its worth, even the car manual suggests getting an exchange rack.
I have two unlic EA's out the back, ill just do the ole swap'a'roo. Its not too much of a job is it?

InitialD · 06-10-2005, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TuMor

Everyone ive talked to said thats more trouble than its worth, even the car manual suggests getting an exchange rack.
I have two unlic EA's out the back, ill just do the ole swap'a'roo. Its not too much of a job is it?

two 14" bolts on the Kframe, then undo the tierod end bolts. a 10mm bolt on the steering column shaft in the enginebay and the two fluid lines.

gozza · 06-10-2005, 04:20 PM

im waiting for mr political to say ""i sincerely hope that the drifting was done on a race track or private strip"

TuMor · 06-10-2005, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gozza

im waiting for mr political to say ""i sincerely hope that the drifting was done on a race track or private strip"

yes, yes it was :newangel:

The tie rod ends are basterds to get off....
mr Gregory says "Disconnect the tie rod ends from the steering arm by holding a hammer or suitable dolly against one side of the steering arm and striking the opposite side with a hammer"

I think mr Tie Rod End is gona have an overnight stay with mrs WD40....

niko · 06-10-2005, 07:10 PM

ive seen the orings replaced, it took 30min that included driving to a bearing joint to get the orings...! lol

Papa Smurf · 06-10-2005, 08:17 PM

One of the major causes for the Switch to blow out is constant hard lock to lock transfer. When you do that it boosts the pressure in the rack and blows seals in the rack and also out the top of the switch. When EA's were new that was a CONSTANT problem but these days not as bad. Ford has a modified switch and it is a lot better.
Beware of after-market switches, they MAY be cheap but that also equates with Nasty? :(

Just for your info guys, EA-ED Racks are STILL available from ford. They are exchange units but are well prepared for Ford.

INJECTED_250 · 06-10-2005, 09:39 PM

the swtich in my eb is still the origanal item.... over 220,000 km...if a new stiwtch only lasts somthing 10000-30000 km.. its getting installed incorectly (done up to tight) or its getting knocked.
I agrea an exchange rack is the go.. STUFFFF doing it ya self.. just asking for trouble

spope · 06-10-2005, 10:24 PM

Quote:

its more of an auto tranny thing

It's NOT more of an auto tranny thing - the reason your car runs fine with it disconnected is that it is a normally closed switch. By disconnecting it, the car assumes that there is load on the power steering and your revs have been increased as a consequence. It only bumps up the RPM by about 150, which is why you probably haven't noticed any difference.

Incidentally, my rack is original, as is the switch, and the car has done over 200,000 ks - no leakage whatsover from the switch.
However, my RH boot does have fluid in it - i'll be rebuilding a rack soon anyhow.

niko · 06-10-2005, 10:34 PM

why is this switch in fords and not in commos?

and wat exactly is it called.

InitialD · 06-10-2005, 10:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by niko

why is this switch in fords and not in commos?

and wat exactly is it called.

Because Commo's probly have a different setup to Eseries

niko · 06-10-2005, 10:57 PM

dude there practically the same steering racks.... just ford have a switch, commos dont. lol