Another gutless EA

zeal · 24-01-2006, 01:45 PM

MY EA has the EA disease: no power, high fuel consumption. Also, if you drop it into drive after starting without letting it warm up, it stalls and floods. Whats been replaced so far (yeah, I'm no mechanic)
-cat (2nd hand, came on a set of extractors I picked up from a wreckers)
-MAP sensor
-temp sensor
-thermostat
-fuel regulator
-fuel filter
-air filter
Also put half a dozen bottles of injector cleaner through it. Any ideas?

Brent79 · 24-01-2006, 01:48 PM

i bet its CPI too. U need to run a diagnostics to get some codes.

Brent

EA2BA · 24-01-2006, 01:50 PM

if its CPI replace both injectors, does wonders.

Brent79 · 24-01-2006, 01:51 PM

yes i agree with dellboy. CLogged/faulty injectors if not a vacuum leak.

Brent

Perana · 24-01-2006, 01:55 PM

Try replacing the oxygen sensor.

gthofan · 24-01-2006, 02:18 PM

does the car stutter if you plant the foot at the traffic lights??

zeal · 24-01-2006, 02:36 PM

Actually, its multipoint.

Tried to get codes, but couldn't work it out. If someone could post a link to a procedure, that would be great.

gthofan: yeah, it stutters if you plant your foot from any standing start. Makes pulling out in traffic interesting

gthofan · 24-01-2006, 02:40 PM

ah ha
got it snyper eb (shaun) had exactly the same thing.
he did everything like u. me and him swapped map sensors, wasnt it. turned out to be a dead computer, and dead cat

EA2BA · 24-01-2006, 02:43 PM

yeah the cat is a very good reason not enough flow.

gthofan · 24-01-2006, 02:52 PM

can you hear rattling from under the car when it is starting, or when its idling

zeal · 24-01-2006, 03:11 PM

No rattling that I can hear.

I swapped over the cat (for a 2nd hand one) on the w'end. The one that went one felt pretty solid, if thats what you meant by rattling. Didn't notice much of a difference befure and after.

If its a dead computer, what would a replacement roughly set you back?

gthofan · 24-01-2006, 03:16 PM

shaun (snypereb) payed $400, from ford

gthofan · 24-01-2006, 03:18 PM

but he had it diagnosed as being dead before he bought a new 1

AshMan · 24-01-2006, 04:31 PM

$40 from wreckers.

sphell · 24-01-2006, 04:50 PM

how many k's does it have on it? I'm guessing pretty high being an EA...do a compression test...it may be pointless changing all this stuff if the motor doesn't have much compression.

Also check the timing to make sure it's not retarded. Those two things equal big power loss if they're not right.

zeal · 24-01-2006, 04:58 PM

k's: Lotsa (bout 320K)

kinda loath to spend money on it: no matter what I spend, short of major mods its still only a $1000 car.

sphell · 24-01-2006, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeal

kinda loath to spend money on it: no matter what I spend, short of major mods its still only a $1000 car.

don't worry about it then, just drive it till it breaks ;)

XRated · 24-01-2006, 06:41 PM

Have you replaced the plugs and leads?

naughtyfalcon · 24-01-2006, 06:44 PM

typical ea aye,,bullИИИИ,,it your piece of crap,,my ea works fine..

vanessa0305 · 24-01-2006, 06:54 PM

I love my ea. I have a new computer here for her but I don't need it. She doesn't miss a beat! I don't know why everyone puts them down so much in my area there are a heap of good condition ea's driving around. Now how many cars go 15 years or more and still go well?

gthofan · 24-01-2006, 06:59 PM

yeah!! go the mighty ea falcon, and let them live for another 15 years or more

The Goodz · 24-01-2006, 08:49 PM

Start with the basics first, and test before you replace. Check the plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor button. Check the timing as well. I doubt very much its your computer. That would be a last resort... I've had this problem many times, and its always been one of things I've just mentioned.

Alex

Jason[98.EL] · 24-01-2006, 10:00 PM

what area are ya from

wadi · 12-04-2006, 10:40 AM

I recently had my EA diagnosed at ultratune, as it's been starting to use a bit more fuel than average, and they gave me this report:-
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7...gnostic3fi.jpg

I'm going to go get a new one from ford tommorow, but someone suggested to replace the rotor cap and tfi module? Would average joe bloke with a spanner be able to undertake this (aka me)? And what prices should I be expecting for a new rotor cap and tfi module?

Its an 89 EA, mpi.

AshMan · 12-04-2006, 02:15 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure you have to remove the inlet manifold to get the dizzy out...

Do yourself a favour and grab a gregories manual... they're gold.

jjj · 12-04-2006, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wadi

I recently had my EA diagnosed at ultratune, as it's been starting to use a bit more fuel than average, and they gave me this report:-
http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/7...gnostic3fi.jpg

I'm going to go get a new one from ford tommorow, but someone suggested to replace the rotor cap and tfi module? Would average joe bloke with a spanner be able to undertake this (aka me)? And what prices should I be expecting for a new rotor cap and tfi module?

Its an 89 EA, mpi.

You shold just replace the complete DIZZY as the hall pickup sensor which sits under the chopper disk could aslo be causing problems. Normally once the TFI module dies the hall pickup sensor dies within 6 months.

Its easy to replace your dizzy, just get the engine to TDC when No1 cylinder is alligned with the dizzy cap #1 and the crank shaft mark is aligned with the TDC mark on the timing cover.

If your leads have been changed around, then take the spark plug out of cyclinder 1 and stick your finger in the hole. Now rotate the crankshaft with a spanner until you feel air pushing pass your finger. That's the piston coming up to TDC. Check that the crankshaft mark is aligned with the TDC mark, and that's TDC for N01 cyclinder.

Now undo the bolt holding the dizzy down, pull the old one out and wack the new one in. It may take a few goes at getting it to slide in on the oil pump gear. But just keep wriggling it and it will eventually slot into gear.

easy.....

cheers.............

fmc351 · 12-04-2006, 02:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AshMan

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure you have to remove the inlet manifold to get the dizzy out...

Do yourself a favour and grab a gregories manual... they're gold.

No you dont, but it makes it easier to do the dissy part. The hard part i find, is getting the dissy into the right cog tooth, and the oil pump drive to line up at the same time. You get it eventually.

someone know an easier way to get the tooth alignment and oil pump drive?

EA2BA · 12-04-2006, 03:01 PM

I have done the dizzy swap many times, with and without manifold on, and there is no easy way to make the stupid thing line up but trial and error.

[Tonko] · 12-04-2006, 03:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AshMan

Do yourself a favour and grab a gregories manual... they're gold.

ive gone off the gregories manuals... i got 1 for my XD... was missing the transmission chapter ....sent it back.....8 weeks later.... got another one..... missing the entire chapter on the diff... paid $60 for an incomplete piece of ИИИИ....

fmc351 · 12-04-2006, 03:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjj

You shold just replace the complete DIZZY as the hall pickup sensor which sits under the chopper disk could aslo be causing problems. Normally once the TFI module dies the hall pickup sensor dies within 6 months.

Its easy to replace your dizzy, just get the engine to TDC when No1 cylinder is alligned with the dizzy cap #1 and the crank shaft mark is aligned with the TDC mark on the timing cover. The balancer can slip so dont rely on marks alone. You need to feel the piston rising and then feel for it to rock at the top. I never use my finger, just a thin, screwdriver resting on the top of the piston. You can tell if your on compressiono or exhaust by looking at the rotor button. If its near No1 lead, its comp, if its exhaust it will be 180 deg away from it. (provided its right to begin with)

If your leads have been changed around, then take the spark plug out of cyclinder 1 and stick your finger in the hole. Now rotate the crankshaft with a spanner until you feel air pushing pass your finger. That's the piston coming up to TDC. Check that the crankshaft mark is aligned with the TDC mark, and that's TDC for N01 cyclinder.

Now undo the bolt holding the dizzy down, pull the old one out and wack the new one in. It may take a few goes at getting it to slide in on the oil pump gear. But just keep wriggling it and it will eventually slot into gear. Oh yeah that parts fun. Sometimes it goes first time, other times you pull and refit for 1/2 an hour trying to get the right tooth, and the oil pump drive.

easy.....

cheers.............

..

Edit: making message longer as required by someone here at the forum, presumably to make sure no posts are simple spam, or the prevention of pointless short posts in favour of longwinded posts that reveal nothing save for pompous verbosity.