Lowering from TTF

**Polyal** · 24-03-2006, 10:41 AM

Hey guys.

Has anyone here had there car lowered by TTF? I have a qoute of $380 including the superlow springs, is that a good price?

Also secondly, will I need a camber/castor kit, and how much are they?

Just trying to figure out how much cash to put aside.

Thanks guys.

dansedgli · 24-03-2006, 11:08 AM

Thats not too bad I guess. I think I paid a mechanic $160 to fit superlows to my XF. I bought the springs for $200ish.

I got a set of springs for $160 trade price for the EB. They take about 2 hours to fit up in the garage with Sunny doing most of the work :P.

**Polyal** · 24-03-2006, 11:38 AM

well if there is anyone around geelong that can fit them for me...a few beers might go there way.

If not then I am stuck wit TTF.

NZ · 24-03-2006, 12:03 PM

Yes you need a camber kit. And guess who has a shim type for sale ;)

And guess who could get their car lowered if they drive to warrnambool ;)

**Polyal** · 24-03-2006, 04:09 PM

karl PM sent

NZ · 24-03-2006, 04:15 PM

pm read.

**Polyal** · 24-03-2006, 04:19 PM

lol..then reply ya bum...

2kool4u · 24-03-2006, 04:25 PM

when lowering a car, what parts do you need?? is it just springs or do you need shocks and all the other parts as well??

$380 sounds like a good price, I would have though lowering would set you back at least a grand, lucky I realised it wasn't that expensive before I went to get my car lowered

Jet-Star · 24-03-2006, 04:41 PM

^^It's around a grand if you get new struts/shockers as well & pay full price on parts.

2kool4u · 24-03-2006, 04:43 PM

Really?? for the whole car, that seems cheap to me for the struts, shocks and springs.

chelvdog · 24-03-2006, 04:44 PM

Won't you need short stroke shockers for the superlows anyway?

**Polyal** · 24-03-2006, 05:46 PM

ive heard alot of people putting Sl's in without changing shocks..ill do that, if its not godd then get the shocks done later

EFDream · 24-03-2006, 06:03 PM

I just stuck the King superlows in mine and left the std shocks there and have no problems! It'll do me till I can afford new shockers. Congrats on the new purchase by the way! Just a question, are you sure you need a camber kit? Coz after I put my springs in I took it down to get an alignment and they told me I don't need a camber kit even tho I'm running 17s'. Perhaps you have bigger rims than me?

NZ · 24-03-2006, 07:57 PM

EF Dream: rim size doesnt affect camber. Why you need a camber kit is because the upper control arm is shorter than the lower . As both move the upper effectivly becomes shorter because it moves through a greater angle compared to the lower. This pulls the top of the spindle in creating a negative camber. This design means when you corner you will get a greater negative camber which is good for handling. WHat isn't good is when you lower the car you will be running a permanant camber which isn't good for driving in a straight line or tire wear.

If you could look at the tire contact patch from underneath (as if the car was on a glass floor and you were under it) negative camber greates a contact patch that is mych like a pine cone. wide on the inside and narrower on the outside. What this does is makes the tire want to travel in a circle. Mych like a pine cone wont roll in a straight line. What they do to correct this is to add a bit of toe in to conteract that effect.

If your running the standard upper arm mounting points and lowered suspension I'd bet your changing your tires quite reguarlly. If you have a camera take a pic of us looking along the side of your car so you can see the 2 tires compared to each other. Sometimes its not that obvious how bad the camber is till you have something to compare it to (rear wheel with 0 camber!)

NZ · 24-03-2006, 08:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polyal

lol..then reply ya bum...

I did :togo:

**Polyal** · 24-03-2006, 08:03 PM

karl jesus christ get with it,....that was ages ago

:

You on 28.8k or something....jk

EFDream · 24-03-2006, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZ

EF Dream: rim size doesnt affect camber. Why you need a camber kit is because the upper control arm is shorter than the lower . As both move the upper effectivly becomes shorter because it moves through a greater angle compared to the lower. This pulls the top of the spindle in creating a negative camber. This design means when you corner you will get a greater negative camber which is good for handling. WHat isn't good is when you lower the car you will be running a permanant camber which isn't good for driving in a straight line or tire wear.

If you could look at the tire contact patch from underneath (as if the car was on a glass floor and you were under it) negative camber greates a contact patch that is mych like a pine cone. wide on the inside and narrower on the outside. What this does is makes the tire want to travel in a circle. Mych like a pine cone wont roll in a straight line. What they do to correct this is to add a bit of toe in to conteract that effect.

If your running the standard upper arm mounting points and lowered suspension I'd bet your changing your tires quite reguarlly. If you have a camera take a pic of us looking along the side of your car so you can see the 2 tires compared to each other. Sometimes its not that obvious how bad the camber is till you have something to compare it to (rear wheel with 0 camber!)

I've run a few thousand kays on the new tyres and can't see any abnormal wear ( I've been keeping an eye out for it). Should I get a second opinion on it as the wheel place I went to said it was unecessary? If I do end up having to get a camber kit can I put it in myself or do I have to get it professionaly fitted? Cheers

ps - sorry for the whoring of the thread Polyal!

NZ · 25-03-2006, 12:41 AM

Camber kits are pretty easy to put in and theres 2 types you can get. Shim type which is basically like the standard part but has longer bolts so they can be packed out with shims. These are a little harder for alignment guys to get right and I've come across a few places that are reluctant to work on a car with them simply because it can be a bit of stuffing around.

The other is the k mac ratchet type which basically is a completly different design and is adjustable from the guard area. THeir design they are kinda prone to slipping and coming out of adjustment.

If your alignment guy said you didnt need one you might already have one in there. A tell tale sign is having longer threads in the engine bay for the upper control arm mounts and shims behing the mounts on the guard side.

If your not having problems then dont worry about it too much

XRated · 25-03-2006, 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NZ

Camber kits are pretty easy to put in and theres 2 types you can get. Shim type which is basically like the standard part but has longer bolts so they can be packed out with shims. These are a little harder for alignment guys to get right and I've come across a few places that are reluctant to work on a car with them simply because it can be a bit of stuffing around.

If they find it hard, then I'd take my car elsewhere. They should be able to get the angle and then use shims accordingly with no hassle.

Kenaz · 25-03-2006, 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Polyal

Has anyone here had there car lowered by TTF?

Yep, I had my VS lowered there the same day they put on some new 18s. I also had some new shocks installed so it cost a bit more than what you're paying. They did a very good job, I haven't had any issues with the car in over 2 years since it was done. This was at Dandenong as well.

NZ · 25-03-2006, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XRated

If they find it hard, then I'd take my car elsewhere. They should be able to get the angle and then use shims accordingly with no hassle.

Thats right. I think a lot of the problem is because it takes extra time the shop is going to want to charge more and rightly so but justifying it to the customer might not be that easy.

On a side note I just had the front of my car done. I got a ratchet kit off another forum member for the sake of trying them out. I managed to fit a 2mm shim behind them and still has some thread through the nuts in the engine bay. It turns out the camber was near on perfect. I run 0 camber and 0 toe in. The shop was pretty busy that day and I turned up late. They didnt charge me to do the alignment because the caster was 2.5 on one side and 5.5 on the other so the car is booked in for next week on one of their traditionally quieter days.