Issues

[XRated]

Me again. Problems as always..... Trying to remain calm this time. I didn't want to start another thread, honest!!

Problem 1: Car shudders during gear changing.
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=42649
This occurs on both up-shifting and down-shifting. It's more noticeable at higher revs. The clutch is only a few months old, flywheel was machined, bolts were torqued up correctly.

It's hard to tell if it's driveline related (bushes, mounts etc), or something internal in the T5. I'm thinking of replacing the trailing arms, and then the engine mounts/gearbox mounts, but if there are other easier and cheaper suggestions I'd be happy to try them first.

I'm not sure if the following is related:

Problem 2: Car shudders violently when it's turned off.
http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=34149

[bakes_eb]

i would be guesing that its ur engine or gearbox mounts as mine does the same and my engine mount is stuffed
scott

[InitialD]

Luke with the 2nd problem my car was doing it till i replaced my injectors and when I put my car into diagnostic mode and checked the timing and adjusted a tiny bit it stoped.

[Aaron_EF8]

1) I'd check the pinion angle, it sounds like that's the problem if you've checked all the clutch/flywheel/driveline. If it were the engine or gearbox mounts, the gearstick would move around a fair bit while it's shuddering. If the top control mount bushes are worn this would also cause axle tramp on hard launches.

2 is Pre-ignition, as said above, check the timing, and spark plugs.

[XRated]

Well this weekend I will try and change the unijoints.. If not, what do you mean by pinion angle? Then... I dunno. Everthing else is too much money and effort!! Hehehe.

As for spark plugs and timing, I'll leave that until I get it tuned (if ever).

[XRated]

Can someone tell me what I'll need to do the Unis? I've got them here, but I read in the manual I'll need a vice clamp (that I don't have) so I'm wondering if I should just leave it and take it to a pro.

[rawlinna]

You need a vice to change unis.. as well as a hammer, sockets, and other normal hand tools

If you haven't got a vice it'll cost you less to buy one than what it would cost to pay someone to change them.
Then you have the vice for other things for the next fifty years

It's a bit of practice to change unis easily but if you never try you never learn

[fmc351]

Vice is nice, but dont actually need one.

Socket that is larger than the uni cap, but small enough to seat the tailshaft ring where the unicap fits into. Pull the circlips from the unis.

Place socket on plywood offcut placed on concrete floor (protects concrete and socket). Sit the tailshaft on the socket, and with a punch (suitable bolt/driver), smack the uni down untill it pops out the opposite cap. Turn over, repeat.

If its a rear, thats it, fit new one. (Best to use a press, but can knock it in, just be careful). Make sure you have the uni in place before you fit the first cap. It wont go in afterwards.

If its the front uni, you need to do the process of removal for two more caps.

If any of this worries you, make sure you have someone there who knows what they are doing, or pay someone to do it. The ring the cap fits into is real easy to smack with the hammer. If you do it hard enough, and you need to hit hard to get old unis out, you can burr the edge, and the new cap will not fit in.

[XRated]

Thanks guys. I changed the clutch cable (I assumed the other one would be okay) and it made a big difference. Of course, nothing for me goes smoothly.......

I took it for a drive and everything was pretty sweet. But, always a but, after about five minutes of driving, everytime I engage the clutch I get a high-pitched squeel and it only goes away when I disengage it. It is adjusted properly (pedal approx. 140mm from firewall) and the nut allows for about 10mm movement.

It sounds like something internal, so I'll probably see a mechanic this week if there aren't any suggestions aside from taking out the box.

[rawlinna]

Originally Posted by fmc351

Vice is nice, but dont actually need one.

You may not actually need a vice but it's asking for trouble not to use one.

Besides, if you're serious about working on your car and you don't have a vice you're just wasting your time.

[fmc351]

Originally Posted by XRated

But, always a but, after about five minutes of driving, everytime I engage the clutch I get a high-pitched squeel and it only goes away when I disengage it. It is adjusted properly (pedal approx. 140mm from firewall) and the nut allows for about 10mm movement.

Throw out bearing is my guess. The noise appears when you push clutch pedal, and dissapears when you release it? Yes?

When you had this clutch done, did they do the spigot, and thrust (throwout) bearings?

Originally Posted by rawlinna

You may not actually need a vice but it's asking for trouble not to use one.

Besides, if you're serious about working on your car and you don't have a vice you're just wasting your time.

I said they are nice, but tailshafts being the lanky things they are, and being that the unis are at the very ends, the vice makes life awkward IMO. Just get a mate to hold it while you smack it out.

Fitting I like to use the press. Ive never had a problem removing/fitting a uni. I never use a vice to do it either.

Although i will admit, im not sure Id do it my way with an Ally shaft. Ive not done one of them yet.

[XRated]

Originally Posted by fmc351

Throw out bearing is my guess. The noise appears when you push clutch pedal, and dissapears when you release it? Yes?

When you had this clutch done, did they do the spigot, and thrust (throwout) bearings?

I fitted the clutch and new bearings etc. But it certainly wouldn't be impossible that I put it on incorrectly. I might hire an engine crane for a day or two and pull the whole engine and gearbox out and replace the engine mounts, have a look at the clutch, spigot, thrust bearings etc...

[Damo]

did you put the clutch plate in the right way around ? The middle bit that sticks out the most should face away from the flywheel.

[fmc351]

Originally Posted by XRated

I fitted the clutch and new bearings etc. But it certainly wouldn't be impossible that I put it on incorrectly. I might hire an engine crane for a day or two and pull the whole engine and gearbox out and replace the engine mounts, have a look at the clutch, spigot, thrust bearings etc...

Thats a lot of work for a gearbox. Just drop the box if need be, dont pull the donk. Too many vac hoses and stuff to bother with the donk. Thats a nightmare you dont need, just to rectify this problem. The mounts are a ba5tard on the left side of early MPFI's, but can be done. My advice is dont pull motor anyway.

Trolley jack, stands, sockets and your done. Use the jack to hold the box's weight, use a hand to steady it on the jack, its easy enough.


Im not sure the clutch would even work for a minute if in backwards, ive never done it, so I could be wrong. Its usually stamped into them which is the flywheel side anyway. If this was it though, it wouldnt just squeel Id say, it would grind. It would sound god awful because the springs would drag on the flywheel. If it is, your flywheel is now knackered anyway.

Would clutch even work if in backwards? Nah, I dont think you could even bolt the pressure plate on. Youd snap a bolt trying to get it tight.

[XRated]

Nah pretty sure it's on the right way LOL!

I'd rather remove the whole donk this time. Last time leaving it in the car was too much of a headache. This way I'll definitely be able to do everything 110%.

Cranes can be bought for 200 and I'm sure it'll come in handy again.

[XRated]

What's the chances. Me and cars just don't mix.

I don't think I updated what happened? I changed the clutch cable for a newie and it was beautiful...... For about 10 minutes. After that I got this horrible noise and knew something wasn't right so I pulled everything out to find the clutch fork rooted and the thrust bearing fall to pieces. It appeared that the problem was the thrust bearing wasn't installed correctly.

---------

So I disassembled it all, fitted a new clutch fork, thrust bearing (correctly 1000% and greased appropriately), clutch, machined flywheel, spigot bearing, new fluid etc. Bolted it all back up nice and tight and to correct Nm. Install the engine and box no worries, bolt it back up, connect new clutch cable....

Annnnd starts first go, good sign, idles perfectly, everything works.. THEN, just to rub salt into wounds, as soon as I engage the clutch I get a scratching/rubbing noise. Has anyone got any ideas? I'm not dropping the box or anything again I can guarantee you that. It'd just be good to get some opinions - I am going to get it towed to a workshop Sun night or Mon morning as I don't want to do any damage driving it.

Oh, it also changes gears (first and reverse fine), moves normally etc. The cable is adjust correctly too.

[fmc351]

Cant see it in the thread, is your firewall/pedal fine?

you know about the fatigue problems with firewall?

[XRated]

Yeah firewall and pedal seems all fine.

Just a quick update, I went to start it now and it was fine. So I took it for a quick squirt around the block, but after a while the noise is back - it's a quietish brassy/abrasive noise. :

At least I should be able to make it to the workshop without a tow.

[TUFED6]

I reckon you probably just have a bit of dirt or something on one of the surfaces (flywheel, clutch fingers...).